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lEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM 



OF 



CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS 










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NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM 



OF. 



(ulting [ddies' Gdrments 



BASED UPON. 



A SCIENTIFIC, SURE AND SIMPLE METHOD 

CIVING THE CORRECT FROI'OKTION S FOR EACH TYPE OK EORM OV 

EVERY SIZE, WITH VARIATIONS FOR AI.I. KINDS OF 

DISl'ROI'OR FIONA TE SHAI'ES AND FORMS 



BY 

CHAS. J. STONE 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



II.I.rSTKATKl) I'.V ri.ATi:S OI- FINELY ICNGKAVED I)IA(,KAMS, WITH ri'LI. 

INSTIUTTIONS I'OK DKAI-TINC, THE VAKIOL'S 

STVLICS OF LADIIiS' GARMENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL 

CHICAGO 



THE LIBRARY OF 

CONSRESS, 
Two Copies RtCEtVED 

APR, 15 1901 

COPvrtlGMT ENTRY 

CLASS O/XXc N». 
COPY B. 



.1' 






Copyright, 1901, 
By THE Chas ] Stone Co. Cutting School. 



DEDICATION 

■M ^ ^* 

To the Twentieth Century Cutter whose 
ruling principle is to progress in the 
Sartorial Art and to keep abreast of 
the times in this comparatively new 
feature of the Art-Ladies' Tailoring-- 
I dedicate this book as a witness of my 
gratification of the appreciation with 
which my first edition was received on 
this branch of the Sartorial Art. 



CONTENTS. 



Preface, .... 

Introduction, 

Proportion Table, 

Proportions, the Division of Height, 

Proportions, the Division of Width, 

Proportions in Practice, 

Foundation Bodice, 

Foundation Bodice with Two Under arm 

Foundation Bodice with One Under arm 

Double Breasted Basque, 

Basque, Short Measure Method, 

Eton Jacket, 

Single Breasted Jacket, 

Double-Breasted Jacket, 

Zouave Blouse, 

Jacket by Shoulder Measure Method, 

Single-Breasted Jacket, 

Shirt Waist, 

Double-Breasted Frock, 

Double-Breasted Coat, 

Single-Breasted Overcoat, 

Double-Breasted Paletot, 

Box Overcoat, - - - - 

Raglan Overcoat, 

Raglan Ulster, 

Double-Breasted Fur Jacket, 

Sleeves, .... 

Regular Coat Sleeve, 

Sleeves for Basques and Shirt Waists, - 

Jacket Sleeve, 

Jacket Sleeve with Cuff, 

Large Top Sleeve, - 

Sleeve with Large Top, 



Pieces, 
Piece. 



PAGE 

7 
- 8 

9 

lO-I I 

12-13 

14-15 
16-17 
18-19 
20-2 I 
22-23 

24-25 
26-27 

28-29 
i^-S • 
32 33 
34-35 
36-37 
38-39 
40-41 

42-43 
44-45 
46-47 
48-49 

50-51 

52-53 

54-55 

56 

- 57 

58-59 

- 60 
61 

- 62 
63 



The Raglan Sleeve, 

Sleeve for Raglan Ulster, 

The Foundation Skirt, 

Three-Gored Costume Skirt, 

Five-Gored Skirt, - 

Six- Gored Skirt, 

Rainy-Day Skirt, 

Fancy Skirt, 

Five-Gored Skirt with Flounce, 

Seven-Gored Skirt, 

Divided Bicycle Skirt, 

Riding Breeches, 

The Leggins, 

Bicycle Cap, 

The Golf Cap, 

Riding Skirt, 

Riding Skirt, 

Half Circle Cape. 

Combination Cape Method, 

Opera Cloaks, - 

Cape with Yoke, 

Variations — The Corpulent Figure, 

Variations — The Easiest Way, 

How to Make the Canvas, 

General Information, 

Superlative Works on Cutting, The 

Chas. J. Stone Cutting School, The 

Stone's Reliable Block Patterns, 

Tailors' Squares and Measures, 

Cutters' and Tailors' Shears, 

New Century Tracing Wheel, The 

On the Square, 

Practical Cutter and Tailor, The 



PAGE 

- 64 

65 

66-67 

- 68-69 
70 71 

- 72-73 
74-75 

- 76-77 
78 79 

- 80 81 
82-83 

- 84-85 

- 86 
86 

- 87 

- 88-89 
90, 91, 92, 93 

■ 94-95 
96-97 

- 98-99 

lOO-IOT 

102-103 

104-105 

106-107 

108-109 

[ 10 

I I I 

1 12 

113 
114 

115 

"5 
116 



PREFACE. 

J* .* ^ 

^T^HIS CKNrURV is opening with the ()iitlool< for business brighter than 
1 ever before, and especially is this true in regard to Ladies' Tailorings In 
these days of progress this department of the trade is making an earnest bid for 
its share of recognition in the sartoiial art. The time has come when the 
science and art of designing, cutting and making ladies' garments is forging 
its way into the four cpiarters of the world, and tailors and cutters must 
be prepared to meet the demand by being thoroughly c(iuipped — ready to 
master its requirements. 

It is a fact to be regretted that so few works promoting the cidtivation 
of ideas treating clearly and concisely on this special subject exist, and of 
those extant a proportionately small number can be relied upon. Hooks are 
our instructors; they expand the intellect, open the treasures of knowledge, 
rendering possible success in life undreamed of. 

It is to further the development of the art of the highest order of our 
craft that I have produced the New Superlative Method of Cutting Ladies' Cat 
ments. Like my other works on cutting it is based on proportions, using for 
variations both shoulder-measure and short-measure methods, and makes an 
invaluable companion work to my "New Superlative System of Cutting Gen- 
tlemen's Garments." 

I view the pages between the covers of this volume with the firmest 
conviction that it will be the instrument of power to assist many a searcher 
after knowledge in this line, and that it will open up a fiood of light on various 
points that seemed obscure and unsolvable. 

The Author. 



( VII. J 



INTRODUCTORY. 



LADIES' TAILORING is commanding the attention of the world to-day, 
and an artist in this line has the fullest scope in exercising his ability in 
designing and fitting garments. The modes vary and the innovations from 
season to season multiply; hence, the fashionable ladies' tailor must be ever 
on the alert. 

Women insist on perfection, both in conception and execution of their 
costumes — and why should they not? — for a well-dressed woman is a work of 
art. The embodiment of grace and beauty is to be found in a perfect female 
form, and when a woman does not possess a perfect form she expects the tailor 
to counteract and hide all defects. 

It is more difficult to make the close fitting garments worn by women 
than to make perfect-fitting clothing for men; therefore a system based on pro- 
portions is an absolute necessity to accomplish the desired results. A careful 
study of the System explained between the covers of this volume will greatly 
simplify the difficulties involved in ladies' tailoring. This work allows for all 
possible variations, originality in ideas in any desired style, and that certain 
unity in a tailor-made suit which is demanded and only artistically attained by 
the System of Proportions. 

This country is producing ladies' tailors who are steadily coming right 
to the front, and the greatest of achievements in this branch of the sartorial art 
will be their reward. Take up this most fascinating and popular study of the 
art of constructing "symphonies" of garments in outline andgrace while the 
trend is upward and onward. 

The basis of the System is determinate, but the style and fashion are 
always fluctuating, and the cutter must learn the principles embodied in the 
System, so that he can bring them into a practical application in his every day 
practice in cutting garments according to the current fashion. 

The fundamental principle upon which this System is based is the pro- 
portionate division of the female form, and the study of these proportions will 
give the cutter a most comprehensive understanding of the foundation he is to 
build on. The proportionate figures are those that are neither stooped nor 
over-erect, and when all the different lengths correspond with height, and when 
all the different widths correspond with the breast circumference, the figure may 
be tall and slim or short and stout, and still be in proportion. 

The table of proportions is not of the ideal form, but of the average. 
The circumference measurements are taken from the breast, and the lengths 
from the height, as follows; If the breast is 34, all circumference measure- 
ments are found opposite that breast measure, and if the height is 5 feet 6 
■nches, all the lengths are found opposite that height scale. 



(VIII.) 



PROPORTIONATE SCALE OF AVERAGE MEASUREMENTS. 



Nulural Inside Length ; r„: 
of Arm to 
■WalsUength e||)„ 



I 2 


6j4 


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Fall Sleeve 


Side Lenpih 


Depth ol Si-je 


Feet - Inches 






IRCUMFKRENCE 








! length 


Brc&sl 


Bust 


Waist 


Neck 


Scjr. 


Blade 


12'A 


6'.- 


5)4 


4 


24 


24 


20 


I I 


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6^ 


524 


4- 2 


25 


25 


20K 


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7 


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4 4 


26 


26 


20.4 


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4- 6 


27 


27 


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28 


28-4 


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9 


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29 


29)2 


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1 3, '2 


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8 


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32 


33 J4 


223^ 


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7 l''! 


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33 


34)2 


2 3, '4 


m;4 


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10-3 


17 


8K 


7;'4 


5- 4 


34 


35^4 


24 


1 4-; 8 


16 


1 1 


17K 


8 '4 


7/8 


5- 4,'--' 


35 


3 7 


24^4 


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38 


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39 


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18 


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38 


40 


27 


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5 6>4 


39 


41 


27^ 


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18 '4 


8 


^h 


5 7 


40 


42 


28/. 

1 


l6j8 


19 


13 


18.- 8 


7 16 


8"/, 


5- 7 '4 


41 


42H 


2 9. '4 


i7;4 


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1 3, '4 


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7 '8 


■ 9 


5- ly.- 


42 


43 ' 2 


30 


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14 


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mK 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE L 



PROPORTIONS. 



•|HE DINISION OK IIKIGHI'. 



The tlicory advanced by our most noted sculptors, 
painters, artists and professors of anthropology, regard- 
ing the height of the human body and its proper divis- 
ion, is that the entire height, from the crown of the 
head to the end of the big toe contains eight faces or 
heads, and on this theory they divide the human form 
into eight faces or heads. The distance from the bot- 
tom of the heel to the end of the toe is estimated to be 
o'j of the entire height. They also claim that the proper 
way to measure for height is to have the subject in a 
lying-down position with feet stretched out, or if in a 
standing position it must be on tip-toe. This theory is 
undoubtedly correct if we want to find the correct 
length of the face, but to tailors and dressmakers this 
is of less importance. What we want is the division of 
the parts of the body that we are required to cover, and 
it matters not if the face of our client is one-sixteenth 
of an inch longer or sliorler, and while the distance 
from the crown of the head to bottom of heel does not 
contain eight times the length of the face, yet I find in 
my practice that tliis distance can be correctly divided 
into eight parts and each of the^e parts subdivided into 
eighths, giving us 64 parts or units for height. 

Tlie division of the female form is nearly the same 
as that of the male, with the following exceptions: Her 
shoulders are narrower, her waist smaller and hips 
larger, and her anus and legi are shorter than the male. 
I consider the average height of the female to be 5 feet 
4 inches or 64 inclies, so if the height of 64 inches is 
divided into 64 parts or units, each unit will be one 



inch. The accompanying diagram is that of a female 
figure, such as the ladies' tailor or dressmaker find 
them, " laced tight in a corset. " The following method 
is used in dividing the height of the 64th unit theory, 
measure taken from top of head to bottom of heel: 

THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. 

From to[) of head to top of neck, as from A to B is ^ 
or „'V 

Note.- It will be noticed that the face on diagram is a 
trifle longer than this division. 

From top of neck to top of shoulder, as from B to C is e"4- 

From top of shoulder to bottom of scye, from C to D, 
is ,f',. which only holds good for the bone structure. 

Note. — This distance must be regulated by the diame- 
ter of the scye, according to flesh development, 
as the distance from N to I' is width, not height. 
{Sre explanation of rvidtln.^ 

B to E is waist length and is '4 of height. 

]•; to F is J8 height. 

.■\ to F is }4 of the entire length of the body. 

I) to F is '4 of the height, to this add one unit which 
regulates length of sleeve. 

In fleshy forms the length of sleeve will decrease, and 
in lean forms increase a trifle, according to in- 
crease or decrease of flesh under the arm at P. 

F to G is 2 units or parts. G to H is 4 units or parts. 

H to J is 2 units or parts. 

I to J, " the knee," is yi. 

1 to K, "lower part of calf," is y?,. 

K to L, "ankle," is 4 parts. 

L to M, "bottom of heel," is 4 parts. 

The length of leg will be 2 units or parts less than ^ 
of entire height. 



NEW SUI^I'-RI-AIIVI-; SVSTKM Ol- CUTTINCr l.ADIKS' OARMKNTS. 



PLATE I. 




Alpha Paramount Cut "A" 105. 

Copyrit'tued If'.i? by i'h:is. ,1. .Stono. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 2. 



PROPORTIONS. 



THE lil\ISION OF WIDIH. 



The width is divided into sixteen equal parts. Note 
these divisions of widths are made from the net breast 
measure taken snug above the bust "mammillae." Of 
these parts Igive six for the front, six for the back and 
two for each side or arm, four for the waist and eiglit 
for the hip, the largest part being across the pelvis. 

The average breast measure of the female form is 
34 inches, and the bust over the mammilla 36 inches. 
The pro|)()rtionate waist will be 10 inches less than 
breast, or two-thirds of the bust measure. 

The hips will measure 40'^ inches, which is one- 
fourtli of breast, on s(iuare 4J4' inches, added to bust 
measure, 36. 



i he entire width across the breast, as frjni C to 8, 
'j breast measure, is divided into eighths, and the 
width of back from C to 3 is Js- C to 5 is .^s. The 
width of back at top of neck is !s. 

The width of shoulders at top are reduced j^ the 
distance between lines 2 and 3 as per dotted line, so 
while the width of back from C to 3 is .'a of breast, the 
width of shoulders is reduced «', at line B K. 

The entire widtli of body is divided into sixteenths 
of the breast, or eighths on division, and the extra bust 
whatever it may measure is added to the front as from 
S to 9. 

While the body is divided into sixteen parts or 
eighths on the division on the square in practice I use 
for the width of back and front of scye the divisions of 
thirds as fully explained in Plate 4. 



NEW SUPERI,ATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' (iARMENlS. 



'3 



PLATE 2. 




Alpha Paramount Cut 'A" 106. 

Copyriiihted ira" by Chas. .1. Stone. 



14 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OE CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 3. 



PROPORTIONS IN PRACTICE. locate top of front shoulder, also the lower shoulder 

point of back at W. 

Jacket, by i.roportionate method, from the follow- A to X is ^^ breast. Draw a line from X through point 

ing measurements: ^y ^^^^^,^ ^^ j,_ ^,,,, f^^,^^ ^ to 13, ■, inch, and 
Height, 5 feet 4 inches. 
Breast, 34 inches. 



lUisl, 36 inches. shape as represented, the top of back coming ^ 

Waist, 24 inches. j^^,^ ^^^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^ ^^ ^^ ^^ 

TO iiRAir. I[ ^yjii !,(. ^gen that the distance from K to W is tliesame 

Square lines A B I) and ATS. as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to V is the 

A to B is 3J2 inches, being «, of height plus jj inch. same as 27 to 21. 

15 to C is 34 breast plus '/i inch. Stjuare down from E to 15, and advance from 15 to 16 

A to 1) is 16 inches, being '4 of height. one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to E and a 

Square lines B, C and D. line from S to 1'. 

C to K is jd breast, and to !•' is }j full bust. S to 19 is j^^ breast and 19 to 20 is Ij inch. 

Divide breast into eight equal parts and mark oft as per h' to 18 and 16 to 17 is 2 inches. 

black dots. Shajie front as represented. 

C to H is }h, H to I is 'a, I to | is Js, J to K is 'a, I) to 23 is i inch, and D to 24 is 6 inches. 

K to 1. is !a. D to i is i J4 inches. 

Square up lines | and !,. 1 to 2 is J^ inch. 

Points J V and U L will then form the diameter of scye, 2 to 3 is 2^^ inches. 

but as the scye in a lady's garment is cut somewhat 3 to 4 is i inch. 

wider than in a gentleman's, I advance from L to 4 to 5 is 2 '4 inches, thus making the back and side 

10 one-half inch and recede from J to 11 one half body and under-arm piece ^ of waist measure. 

inch. The arm-scye will then be nearly a circle, 14 to 6 is ij4 inches. 

as indicated by dotted line 27, 21. 6 to 7 is 2^4 (same as side and underarm pieces). 

Point G is halfway between 1". and 1'. 7 to 8 is i^ inches. 

Sc|uare up from G to R. Note. — See Plate 4 for more complete method of 

FJivide distance between G and 10 into three equal waist suppression. 

jjarts and locate points O and P, and square up The dotted lines on back and side body indicate the 

points O and P. pleats. 

Z is halfway between B and \'. E'inish draft as represented and add seams all over 

Draw a line from T through /, to 12. This line will when cutting the cloth. 



SEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTriNG I.ADll.S' (;\RMi:MrS. 



•5 



PLATE 3. 




i6 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 4. 



FOUNDATION BODICE 



It is absolutely necessary to first understand the 
proportions before we attempt to find the dispropor- 
tions, so the surest and safest way to proceed in cutting 
ladies' garments is to first and foremost get an under- 
standing of the anatomical divisions of the human form, 
and from these divisions of the height and width of our 
subject, outline a model pattern, and then apply actual 
measurements for any variations that are needed to make 
the garment fit perfectly in every respect. Of course 
the making up of the garment has a great deal to do 
with the fit of it, but making alone will not produce it. 
The garment must first be cut correctly, then made up 
carefully according to instructions from the cutter who 
should be thoroughly posted in the making up as well 
as the cutting of the garments, in order to produce sat- 
isfactory results in building ladies' garments. 

In dividing the female form I give the division of 
width as sixteen parts or eights, which is correct. In 
practice I use the eighth to locate all points, or for 
convenience sake I use one-third breast and ha inch 
for the width of the back and two-thirds breast less ji 
inch for the size of the blade from center of back to 
front of scye. 

I will here e,\plain the relation between both the 
tliird and eighth theory: 

15reast, 34 | Bust, 36 | Waist, 24 

Height, 5 feet 4 inches. 

TO DKAKT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3 units of height and '/■i inch. 

B to C is yi inch and C to D is j{ breast, or to make 
it more plain, for a figure 5 feet 4 inches I go down 
from A to C 4 inches with a variation of I'e inch 
for every inch in height. The distance from A to 
C will then be for a figure — 



5 feet 4 inches, 
5 feet 6 inches, 
5 feet 8 inches, 

5 feet 10 inches, 

6 feet, 



4 inches 
4^ inches 
4}{ inches 
43s inches 
4^2 inches 



The distance from C to D is always one- fourth breast 

of whatever size is drafted. 
A to 37 is ^ inch and 37 to E is one-fourth of height; 

in this case 16 inches. 
E to 24 is 2 inches. 
Square lines B, C, D and E. 
If extra size is wanted over the breast I go in as from 

D t > T, '< inch and apply the breast and bust 

mea>ure from L. 



D to H is J4 breast and H to 3 and H to 5 is '8 breast. 
The distance from D to 5 is ^4 of the breast measure as 

divided by lines 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. 
In drafting the scye I would according to this method 

recede 3.3 inch, as from 3 to I, and advance in front 

of scye yi inch, as from 5 to J. 
If we use the other method there is then L to F yi and 

from L to G is ^3 breast. 
F to 1 is 3-g inch and G to J is yi inch. 
Square up from I and J and down from H through W. 
D to L is i^ inch. 
L to M is half of breast measure and L to N is half of 

bust measure. 
Square down from N to U. 
U to V is one inch. 
O is halfway between M and N. 
O to P is yi bust and P to Q is ys breast. 
Square up lines P and Q and draw a line from N to S 

and a line from R to C. 
A to Y is 1/8 breast. 
Draw a line from Y through Z. 
Z to 34 is yi inch and Y to ^^ is ^ inch. 
R to 35 is the same as ^^^ to 34. 
J to K is ^4 breast. 
R to T is ^ inch less than I4 breast, and T to 23 is 

yi inch. 
The broken line from 23, N, 20 and 14 is the front 

center line, and whatever is added to this is for 

overlap; as in this case 23 to 30 is }^ inch, N to 

28 and 14 to 27 is J/^ inch. 
J to 19 is one inch. 

Draw a line from F through 19 to 20, and divide the dis- 
tance from 19 to 20 into 3 equal parts for the darts. 
W to X is yi inch, W to 11 is yi inch. 
E to 6 is J^ inch and 6 to 7 is i^ inches. 

7 to 8 is ^ inch. 

8 to 9 and 11 to 10 is 233 inches, making the distance 

from 6 to II one-fourth of the waist measure. In 
some instances I add y( inch at 9 and 10 and take 
this amount out in front darts. 

X to 1 1 is ^ inch. 

Apply half of waist measure from 6 to 7, 8 to 9, 10 to 
II and 12 to 17, then measure the distance from 17 
to 14, which is the amount to be taken out in the 
darts, as follows: First square back from 14 to 13, 
then draw a line from X to 13; if the distance 
from 14 to 13 is, as in this case, 5 inches, take out 
one-third of this amount from 15 to 16 (use 20 on 
twelfths) and two-thirds from 17 to 18 (use 20 on 
sixths on the square). 

14 to 15 is ij4 inches and 16 to 17 is y^ inch. 

Finish as represented and add seams when cutting 

the cloth. 



NEW SUPERI.ATlVIi SVSTKM OF CUTTING LADIES' (;AkMi;Nl.S. 



'7 



PLATE 4. 




i8 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SVSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 5. 



FOUNDATION BODICE WITH TWO 
UNDER-ARM PIECES. 



The accompanying draft is produced from the fol- 
lowing measurements: 

Breast, 36 | Bust, 38 | Waist, 26 | Hip, 42)^ 

■)'() DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is Va inch. 

B to C is 2 inches for 5 feet 4 inches with a variation 

of I'li of an inch for every inch in height. 
C to D is ji breast plus ;i inch (18 on thirds). 
B to E is 16 inches (one-fourth of height). 
E to F is 5 inches, which is 5 units {i, of height). 

The height is divided into 64 parts. 
Square lines C, D, E and F. 

D to G is yi of breast, and D to H is j.. of bust measure. 
I is half way between G and H. 
I to J is ji bust. Square up to K. 
K to Q is }i breast. 
A to U is J/8 breast. 
Draw a line from U to N and from Q to N for slope 

of shoulder. 
U to S is J4 inch. 
D to M is yi and to L is ;3 breast. 
L to O is J'j inch. 

to P is '(i breast. 

D to W is yi breast on division. 

Square down from W to X and lower waist line ji inch 

below X to 5 one-half inch. 
1'" to I is '{ inch. 

In sizes below 25 waist I use only one under-arm 
piece, but in sizes above 25 waist it is necessary in a 
close-fitting waist or bodice to have two underarm 
pieces in order to produce a smart waist effect besides 
a clean, smooth fit over the hips. The waist being 25, 

1 use 25 for working power in the following manner: 
E to I is ^4 inch. 

1 to 2 is t'j waist ( 12)2 on twelfths). 

2 to 3 is _'/. inch and 3 to 4 is 'g waist (i2j^ on sixths). 

5 to 6 and 5 to 1 1 is i". waist, making under-arm piece yi. 

6 to 7 is Jj inch. 

7 to 8 is '/6 waist. 

8 to TO and 4 to 9 is j( inch added, also j| inch is 

added to under-arm piece at 11, so as to make the 
side body and under-arm piece measure the same 
width. 



\V to D4, and W to C3, is ,'2 waist. 

Ai is halfway between D and M. 

A I to B2 is yi inch. 

N to T is J^ inch. 

N to F6 is I '4 inches. 

Draw a line from F6 to B2 and from B2 to 2 and to 3. 

FO to G7 is yi inch. 

E5 is halfway between D4 and G7. 

Draw a line from M to 4 and 9 and from M to 8 and 10. 

Draw a line from D4 to 7 and to 6. 

Draw a line from C3 to 1 i and to point y( inch for 
ward of 1 1. 

O to 27 is 2 inches. Draw a line from D through 27, 
which line will locate the average height of darts, 
when our client wears a low French corset. For a 
high corset I go down from O only i inch and 
draw the line from M. 

28 to 29 and 29 to 30 is }i bust. 

H8 to I9 is y^ bust and yi inch. 

Draw a line from 29 to I9. Apply y^ waist measure, 
6j^ inches, from 5 to star at 15, then measure 
distance from star 15 to front at Z, and take out 
yi of what is over for suppression from 13 to 14, 
and ;',? from 15 to 16. 14 to 15 is ^ inch. Hav- 
ing added '^ inch from 4 to 9 and from S to 10, 
in all y^ inch, I suppress this amount between fore- 
part and under arm piece as from 11 to 12. Now 
the waist will measure from i to Z 121^ inches, 
which is yi of waist measure. 

Q to V is ^ inch less than y( breast. 

V to Jio is 'j inch. Shape front center from V 10 to 
■4^ inch forward of H, ji inch forward of Z down 
to H8. 

THE HIP. 

17 to 1 8 and 19 is I'a hip each way. 17 to 22 and 23 is 
yi hip each way, and F25 is ^ hip, all on divis- 
ion on the square. 

F to 27, 17 to 22, 17 to 21 and 22 to 26 is i inch each. 
Shape hip as per diagrams and apply hip measure 
as follows: Measure width of back at F; place 
this amount at 24 and measure from 24 to 25, 23 to 
20, 18 to 19, 21 to 26, continuing out to H8, i^ 
of hip measure and yi inch, and suppress yi the 
surplus in the first or yi in the second dart. 
This being only a constructive draft, the front edges 

will meet, and the length is to the hip' line, the draft to 

be changed in style to suit the cutter. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTINC LADIES' GARMENTS. 



19 



PLATE 5. 




20 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 6. 



FOUNDATION BODICE WITH ONE 24 is halfway between 23 and V. 

UNDER-ARM PIECE. Draw a line from 24 to 13. In this manner, by the aid 

of these construction lines, the back and sidebodies 



'I'he accompanying draft of a Ladies' Basque is for ^^,j[] ag^ume their proper shapes without the use of 

a figure measuring— dummy shapers. 

'"'^'' ' " 3 C to (i is '4 of breast and C to H is }< of bust measure. 



Height, - 5 ft- 4 in 

Breast, - - 34 



Waist, - - 24 



I is halfway between H and G. 



'I'he draft is produced from proportions in the fol- I to J is 's bust (this is the only place where the divis- 

lowing manner: ion of busr is used). 

■vo DRAFT. Square up from J to K and square down from H to X. 

Square out and down from A. ' X to Y is one inch in all cases excepting in corpulent 

A to B is }4 inch. figures, where e.xtra fat is added. 

B to C is j^' breast and 3^4 inches. Draw a line from Y to H and from H to K, and shape 

B to D is ^4 height (^16 inches). front center line as per dotted line from K to }i 

D to E is I '2 and D to F is 3 inches. inch forward of H ami }{ inch forward at Y; on 

Square lines C and I). to this line will come the front end of buttonholes, 

C to M is I.; and C to N is -.; breast. also the buttons are placed on this line. Then add 

N to O is J'2 inch. from this center line or button line to front edge 

Square up from O and M. of basque 34 inch for front edge, and on the left 

P is halfway between C and M. side is left fully \j inch extra for buttonstand, as 

P to 12 is '/j and M'to 13 is ^(. inch. per broken line. 

M to Q is yi breast plus }\ inch. A great number of cutters are in the habit of cutting 

() to 22 is I V. inches. the front edge hollow opi)osite the waist line. This is 

22 to 23 is yi inch in and down. a mistake, for the front edge from bottom to about six 

B to T is 'a breast. inches up must be long, and in order to make it so, I 

Draw a line from T to Q. cut the edge slightly convexed or round, and hollow 

T to U is j/. inch. out the front dart from eleven up to about five inches. 

Q to 20 is '4 inch. O to 14 is i inch. 

D to I is '4 inch. Draw a line from M through 14. This will locate the 

1 to 2 is I '4 inches. top of darts for the average form wearing a high 
Draw a line from 2 to 12 anil 12 to 22 for guide line. corset (for a low corset I go down 2 inches from 

2 to 3 is l4 inch. O and draw the line from CV 

Draw a line from 3 to 12. H to 15 is I4 inch more than }i bust, and 15 to 16 is 

C to V is y. breast on division. y^ inch more than }s breast, and Y to 11 is ^ 

Sipiare down from \' to W and lengthen side 3i inch inch less than }i bust. 

below waist line at W, running out to nothing at 3 Having added yi inch extra to the back section of 

and Y. waist, I deduct same amount from the front section, 

W to 6 is yi and W to 7 is >^ inch. so instead of 6, it is only 5 ''3 inches, which I apply 

T'he waist measure being 24, one-fourth of this is 6 from 7 to 31. Then measure the distance from 

inches; deducting the width of the back, 1 14 inches, 34 to Y, which is the amount to be suppressed, 

from this leaves 434 inches, which will make the take out one third of this amount from 11 to 10, 

width of the sidebody and under-arm pieces each and two-third from 9 to 8. 

2.;8 inches wide at waist, but in order to reduce 10 to 9 is 34 inch. 

the width of forepart from 7 to 8 so as to get it to Draw lines from 15 to 10 and 1 1, and from 16 to 8 and 

fit smoothly, I take "2 inch off from the front sec- 9, and shape darts as shown in diagram, 

tiou and add it to the bick section of waist; this 28 and 29 is on a line with point E 

will give '4 inch extra to each of the sidebody and 30 is '2 inch above a line drawn from point F, which 

under-arm ])ieces, so instead of 2j^ inches it will be runs parallel with waist line to point 19. 

from 3 to 4, 258 inches, and from 6 to 5, 254 inches. K. to L is '3 breast and K to Z is j{ inch less than }i 

Draw a line from 4 to 13 and from 5 to 13. breast. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' (GARMENTS. 



PLATE 6. 




Draw a line from L to Q. 

Measure distance from U to 20 and make shoulder 

from L to 21 the same. 
O to S is J^ breast. 
In drafting the collar draw a line from first button to Z 

and from Z through L. 



25 to 26 is I inch, and 25 to 27 is i}2 inches. 

The width of lapel and collar at notch is i }( inches. 

The bottom of the basque is left open at E, 28 and 29. 
In some instances the back and sides are cut 
shorter than the front, and the openings extend up 
to the waist line. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 7. 



DOUBLE BREASTED BASQUE. 



This basque is cut double breasted with only one 
dart at the waist line and a V at the neck of the fore- 
part. The front closes with six buttons and the front 
edge comes up to line of dart. Tlie measures are as 
follows: 



Length of waist, 


i6 


Breast, 


34 


Full length, 


18 


Rust, 


■ 36 


Side length. 


8}i 


Wai:^t, 


24 


Scye, 


16 


Hip, 


- 40 




ID D 


<.AFr. 





Square out and down from .\. 

A to B is y^ inch. 

B to C is 2 inches. 

C to D is ' .( of breast. 

C to E is length of waist and to 20 full length. 

Square lines C, D and K. 

D to N is Kj. and to O is -'.; of breast. 

to P is yj and N to Q is 'k inch. Square up lines 

P and Q. 
D to R is ji breast. Square down from R to S and T. 
D to F is }^ breast measure. 

D to G is j'j bust measure. Square down from G to H. 
H to U is I inch. 

1 is halfway between F and G. 



I to J is )s bust. Square up from J to K and draw a 

line from K to G and from G to U. 
K to L is J/a breast, K to 16 is }i breast, and 16 to 17 

is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from L to M for run of shoulder. 
A to V is ys breast. Draw a line from V through M. 
V to \V is ^^ and M to X is }i inch. 
L to V is the same as W to X. 
P to Z is 36 breast. 
M to 10 is I ^ inches, 10 to 11 is ji inch, and 12 is 

halfway between i i and R. 
14 is halfway between D and Q, and 1 4 to 15 is -s inch. 
Q to 13 is 3 8 inch. 

Apply under-arm length (8)4 inches ) from R to T. 
T to 3 is ^ inch. 
E to I is 1J4 inches, i to 2 is J^ inch, 2 to 5 is 25^ 

inches, and 3 to 4 is 2.^8 inches. 
T to 6 is ^ inch. 

30 is halfway between O anti G, and 30 to 9 is 2 inches. 
U to 8 is I ?,;i and 6 to 7 is 4)^ inches. 
The back and side-bodies will measure yi inch more 

than one-fourth of waist, and the forepart }4 inch 

less than one-fourth of waist measure. 
U to 2r is 3 I4' inches. 
U to 19 is ij^ and G to 18 is 334 inches. 
Shape as represented, and add seams when cutting the 

cloth. 



NKW SUI'KRI.ATIVE SYSTEM OF GUI' TING LADIKS' GARMENTS 



23 



PLATE 7. 




24 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 8. 



BASQUE. 



7 


Ya 


i6 




iS 




•5 


i4 



Blade, 


loY^ 


Breast, 


34 


Bust, 


36 


Waist, 


24 


Sleeve length. 


18 



WITH ONE DART. 

The width of lapel and collar at notcli is i yl inches. 
There is no seam in center of back : there is an opening 
in the front dart to within 'j inch of the waistline, and 
also an opening in center back. 

The draft is produced by actual measurements as 
follows: 

Depth of scye. 

Waist length. 

Full length. 

Strap, 

Over shoulder, 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 3^ inch and A to K is ^ breast. 

B to C is depth of scye, 7^ inches, to D waist length, 

and to E full length. 
Square lines C and D. 
C to F is blade measure, 10^4 inches, and G is halfway 

between C and F. 
G to H is Y^ inch. 

H to J is Yz inch more than ' ,; breast. 
K to L is Y2 inch and J to W is .' « inch. 
W to 1 is I J^ inches. 
I to 2 is 3 s inch. 
G to M is I }^ inches. 
D to 4 is Y inch. 
T to U is ^8 breast. 
Apply strap length from B to L; place this at F and 

measure up to U, net strap measure; then draw a 

line from U to J. 
U to V is the same as L to W. 
Apply over shoulder measure from C to 28; place this 

amount at F and measure up net over shoulder 

measure to 29, which invariably comes out correct 

with proportionate slope of shoulder. 
Square down from Q to Y. 

Y to Z is I inch; draw a line Q to Z and from Q to T. 
1 Xo i2\% Y inch less than Yi breast. 
Q to 14 and Z to 15 is Y 'nch for button stand. 
12 to 13 is 2j;( inches. 



23 is halfway between F and Q. 
23 to 24 is 2 inches. 
Z to II is t Ji; inches. 

Y to 22 is 2 i_i inches. 

Apply waist measure from Z to 11; place this at 4, 
measure out to 5 and from 6 to 7, 8 to O and 9 to 
10, half of waist measure. 

4 to 5 is 1J4 inches. 

5 to 6 is ^ inch. 

6 to 7 is 2^8 inches. 
C to I is half breast. 
Square down from I to N. 

I to X and N to O is % inch. 

O to 8 is 25^. 

3 is halfway between 2 and X. 

Apply under arm length from I to N, 8Y inches. 

O to 9 is Y inch. 

C to P is half of breast measure. 

C to Q is half of bust measure. 

R is halfway between P and Q. 

R to S is yi bust. 

Square up to T. 

The sleeve is drafted by proportions of the breast, as 
follows: 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 1^4 and A to C is Y breast. 

C to D is i^ inch. 

C to G is Y^ breast and H is halfway between C and G; 
square up to I and draw a line from I to C. 

D to F is 18 inches actual length, and E is halfway be- 
tween D and F. 

E to N and F to P is i inch. 

Sijuare out from E to O by Fand from N to Q by P. 

N to V is 1 3 breast and P to R is ^ breast. 

Lay long arm of square on V and short arm on P, 
letting corner of square touch point R, and square 
V, R, P. 

Y to U is >^ inch. 

D to M and D to L is ^^ inch. 

G to J is yi, breast; sweep out from J to K by V. 

G to K is yi breast and K to T is 'i inch. 

G to S is Y inch. 

F to X is 134! inches and R to W is 13/4 inches. 

Y is halfway between P and R. 



NEW SUFKRI.ATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING l-ADIKS' GARMENTS. 



25 



PLATE 8. 




26 



NEW SUPF':RLATIVE system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 9, 



ETON JACKET. 



The back is cut in one piece, no seam in the center. 
The width of the back at the waist seam is one inch 
more than )4 waist so as to bring the seam well to front. 
There is a i J/( inch wide belt around the waist running 
through the front dart and fastened with hooks in front. 
The front of coat may be buttoned up, but is usually 
worn open so as to expose a fancy shirt waist. 



1 6 



i?4 



Breast, 

Bust, 

Waist, 



Length of waist. 
Underarm length, 
Front length, 21 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 4 inches. 

B to (" is '.,' breast. 

A to F is ' .■ iiicli. 

F to 1) is waist length, 16 inches. 

Square lines C and D. 

C to V, is yi inch. 

Draw back center line from .\ through li to G. 

E to N is ^j breast, and to O is '/i of bust measure. 

E to H is ' ; and to I is - ; of lireast. 

I to I is |1. and H to K is -^ inch. 

Square uj) lines J and K. 

E to L is y^ breast. Square down from L to M. 

O to S is }4^ bust; square up to T and down to 10. 

Draw line from T to H. 

T to U is '8 breast. 



34 
36 
24 



Draw a line from Li to O. 
I'" to W is }4 breast. 
Draw a line from W through V. 
W to X is j/i inch. 

Y to 14 is yi inch. 

T to 13 is the same as X to 14. 

J to Z is Vc, breast. 

M to 3 is 3/^ inch, or apply under-arm length from I. to 3. 

3 to 5 is 24 inch. 

G to 1 is 7 inches, being i inch more than j/; of waist 

measure. 
Square up from i to 2, and draw a line from 2 to 5. 
Apply front length from V to X. Place this at T and 

measure down to Q, 21 inches. 
In this draft I' to Q is i inch, and P to R is i inch. 
R to 6 is 2 '4^ inches. 
S to 10 is 2 y-j inches. 
Shape front dart from 10 to 6, and sweep from 6 for 

length of forepart at 7. 
5 to 7 is 2 ?4 inches. 
T to V is J^ inch less than '4 breast. 

V to 2<S is 2 y^ inches. 

O to 25 and R to 26 is ?4' inch. 

The top button is '4 breast up from point O. 

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from the break 
of the lapel to a point }^ of an inch forward of 
point T, as at 29, which will locate point 27. 

Draw a line from 27 through point T to 30 for break of 
collar. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



27 



PLATE 9. 




NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE JO. 



SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET. 



The accompanying draft represents a single- 
breasted peaked lapel jacket, the front closing with 
nine buttons, there being only one dart in the front, 
and in order to make the distance from 6 to 8 as narrow 
as possible, so as to make it fit smoothly over the hip, 
no back suppression is taken out at point V, but instead 
the whole inch is taken out, as from 4 to 6. This draft 
is made from the following measures: 
Breast, 34 | Bust, 36 | Waist, 24 

Height, 5 feet 4 inches. 

10 DRAFT. 

Sijuare out and down from A. 

A to B is .;8 inch. 

A to C is 4 inches and C to D is '/( breast. 

B to E is '4 of height, 16 inches, and E to 13 is 2)4 

inches. 
Sipiare lines C, D and E. 
D to F is 1/5 and to G ^3 breast. 
G to J is 1.4, and F to I is .-8 inch. 
Square up from I and J. 
D to K is half of bust measure, 18 inches. 
K to L is y, inch for ease over the bust. 
Square down from L to W. 
W to X is I inch. 

K to M is J{ breast. Square up from M to N. 
N to O is ys breast. Draw a line from O to L. 
O to Y is yi breast, and Y to 18 is xy inches. 
Draw a line from N to C. 
A to Q is }i breast. Draw line from Q tlirough P 

to S. 
Q to R is }i, and P to L is '4 inch. 
17 is halfway between D and I. 
Hollow center of back y inch, as at E. 
E to I is I ;4 inches, and i to 2 is y^ inch. 



The side seams are located y inch below 14, and run 
ys of an inch forward of 17. 

14 to 15 is ^ inch. 

D to H is J4 breast. Square down from H through V. 

In the ordinary jacket with two front darts y inch is 
suppressed back of V, and the back and side bodies 
are made y inch more than y of waist. In this 
case the y inch that has not been taken out back 
from V is added to the back section as follows: 
One-fourth of waist 6 inches, to this add one inch, 
making it 7 inches for the back section, from this 
deduct ly inches, the width of the back from E 
to I, which leaves 5^ inches for the two side 
bodies, making each side body 2?^ inches from 2 
to 3 and 4 to 5. 

M to Z is one inch. Square down to 28. 

Z to 28 is 2y inches. 

Square back from X to 7. 

X to 7 is i3/j^ inches. Sweep from 7 to 8 by 28. 

D to H is ^ breast. Square down from H to V. 

V to 4 is "^ inch, and 4 to 6 is one inch. 

.'Vpply waist measure from X to 7, E to i, 2 to 3, 5 to 
4, and 6 to 8, half of waist. 

5 to 12 and 4 to II is 2 inches. 

8 to 10 and 7 to 9 is 2^ inches. 

X to 27 is ^y inches. 

L to 25 and X to inch for button stand. 

N to 20 is y incli. 

25 to 19 is 2 inches Draw a line from 19 to 20 to 
locate point 21. Then draw a line from 21 
through N to 22 for break of collar and lapel. 

22 to 23 is I inch. 

22 to 24 is I y inches. 

The width of lapel at notch is 2 inches, and the collar 
at notch is jy inches. Finish as represented and 
add seams when cutting the cloth. 



NKW SUI'KRLAIIVK SVSrKM i)V CUniNC. I,AI)IKS' GARMKNIS. 



29 



PLATE 10. 



•'V 




3° 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE U. 



DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET. 



The special features in tlie accompanying draft of a 
double breasted jacket are that the back side-seams and 
the front dart both run u]) into the shoulders. There 
is no seam in the middle of the back. The bottom of 
tlie jacket has an opening of i}-^ inches in each seam 
and each part is rounded off, the lapels and collar are 
quite heavy and corners well rounded, and the sleeves 
are cut a little bell at the liand with openings in each 
seam to correspond with the jacket; everything to have 
a round effect. This style of jacket is particularly in- 
tended for a figure with liigh bust. Tlie draft is ])ro- 
(iuced by proportions from the following measures: 



Natural waist length, i6 
Full length, - 20 

Side length, ■ - 8}{ 



Hreast, 
Bust, 
Waist, 
Hip, 



J3 

37 
40 



TO T)R.\rr. 

Square out and down from .'\. 

A to B is 23^ inches. 

B to C is J4 bust. 

.A to D is 3/8 inch. 

D to E is 16 inches and to F is 20 inches. 

Square lines B, C, E and F. 

C to H is half of bust measure. 

Square up and down from H. 

I to J is I inch. 

Draw a line from H through ) to 21. 

J to 2 1 is 4yi inches. 



C to O is ys and C to P is ^j breast. 

O to I is J/^ and P to 2 is }4 inch. 

Square up from i and 2. 

G is halfway between i and 2. 

U to L is yo breast. N to Q is J^ inch. 

Draw a line from L through N to Q. 

K to M is }( bust. 

Draw a line from M to N. 

M to R is the same as L to Q. 

K to S is }.( inch more than ^ breast. 

S to T is ^ inch. 

H to X is 5 inches and J to \V is 2 inches. 

Fold paper on line H J and cut out the front edge and 

dart at the same time by cutting the paper double, 

then open up paper and finish draft. 
N to Y and R to Z is i "/^ inches. 
}■( inch is taken out at Y and '4 inch at 26. 
E to 5 is ^ inch. 

5 to 6 is I ^^ inches. 

6 to 7 is ^ inch. 

7 to 8 is 2 3^ inches. 

G to V is side length, 8^ inches. 

G to 3 and V to 4 is }4 inch. 

4 to 9 is 2^ inches. 

4 to 10 is 1^ inches, and 10 to 11 is jSg inches. 

The openings at bottom of the jacket are at points 16, 

17, 18, 19 and 20, 23^ inches below the waist line. 
The width of lapel at notch is 3^^ and the collar at 

notch 23/4 inches. 
The collar stand in the middle of back is i inch and 

the turn-over i^ inches. 



NEW SUPRRLATIVR SYSTEM OF CUTTINCx LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PLATE U 




32 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 12. 



ZOUAVE BLOUSE 



The back is without a center seam, and there are 
i'/^ inch openings in center of back and sides, as at 
points I, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7. The front is closed with 
one button at top, and liangs open all the way down to 
the waist line so as to expose the silk waist which should 
be worn underneath this blouse. The front is orna- 
mented with five military throgs, the three lower ones 
extending to the dart seam, and the two upper ones ex- 
tend out far enough to be in line with the lower ones; 
the two top throgs may have hanging loops. There are 
three rows of olives on the front — two on the left and 
one row on the right side. The throgs should be fast- 
ened onto the forepart as far to front as to the middle 
knot. The top button at 27 and the top hook at P 
should be closed and the two top throgs buttoned over, 
with tlie three lower throgs hanging loose, allowing the 
front of silk waist to peep out. 

The material for this kind of garment is usually a 
reversible, rough-faced goods. Tlie right side should 
be a military blue or a cadet gray, and the reverse side 
plaid. Tl,e blouse is lined with silk, and the skirt is 
made reversible so that both sides can be worn. 'Ihe 
bottom of skirt is face<l with the same goods about five 
inches wide. 

In order to make it as plain and ct)mprehensive as 
possible, the draft is produced by priii)ottions from the 
following measures: 

Length of waist, 16 I Bust, 35 

Breast, 33 | Waist, ^^ 

10 DK.M I. 

Square out and down from .\. 

A to B is -;8 inch. B to C is 2 inches. C to D Is '/■, bust. 
B to E is 16 inches, natural waist length. 
Square lines C, D and E. 

D to F is yi breast, and D to G is 'fs breast. 
G to H is }i inch and F to I is }^ inch. 
Square up lines I and-H. 

D to J is 1,4 breast, square down from J to K. 
D to O is j/2 of breast measure, and D to P is '/i of 
bust measure. 



Q is halfway between O and P. 

Q to T is yi bust. 

S()uare up from T to U, and draw a line from U to P. 

S<iuare down from P to R. 

R to S is 1 inch, draw a line from P to S. 

U to V is yii breast, draw a line from V to L. 

V to Y is }^ inch less than 3/4 breast. 
H to Z is i^ inch more than 's breast. 

B to M is ys breast, draw a line from M through L to X. 
L to X is |/^ inch. 
M to N is ^ inch. 

V to W is the same as N to X. 

I to 16 is J4 inch more than ys breast. 

I to 23 is I inch. 

E to 13 is ys of waist measure (23 on eighths). 

K to 1 1 is 3/| inch. 

I I to 12 is 's waist (23 on eighths). 

^ inch is suppressed between back and sidebody at 16. 

K to 10 is I inch. 

10 to 9 is !s waist (23 on eighths). 

S to 8 is 'a waist (23 on eighths). 

Point 25 is 2^2 inches below the breast line and cjn a 

line halfway between points P and II. 
Point 1. 1 is I J^ inches below waist line, and point 26 is 

3 inches below waist line. 

V to 24 is 2 inches. 

V to 17 is 34 incli; draw a line from 17 to 27, which 

point is o|)posite point Z; where this line crosses 
neck gorge is point 19; draw a line from 19 through 
shoulder point V to 20 for break of collar. 

V to 20 is the same as B to N. 

20 to 21 is t},{ inches, and 20 to 22 is i^ inches. 

The collar and lapel at notch is i '2 inches. There 
is one buttonliole at 27, and the fronts overlap 1 inch 
at this point, so the top button (the only one on the 
blouse) is placed ^ inch in from the front edge under 
the throg. The front closes with this one button, and 
the front edges just meet from P to 28. There are 
seven hooks and eyes in the front edges between points 
P and 28, one hook and eye under and one between each 
throg. E to I, 13 and 12 to 2 and 3, 1 1 and 10 to 4 and 
5, 8 and g to 6 and 7 are i^inch openings. The edges 
may be double-stitched or corded with military braid. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' CARMENTS. 



.V? 



PLATE 12. 




J4 



NEW SUPERLATIVK SVSrKM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 13. 



JACKET BY SHOULDER MEASURE 
METHOD. 



Strap, iij'^ I Upper shoulder, 23 | Lower shoulder, 22 Jj; 
Length— Back to waist, 16; full length, 21; under 
arm to wais^, 8>4; full length, lo'^;; front to darts, 
13^2; to waist, 20; full length, 23. 

24 
42 



Breast, 


34 




Waist, 


Bust, 


37 




Hip, 




TO U 


UAKl 





Square out and down from .A. 

A to B is J4 of upper shoulder measure and Jj inch. 

Square across from B. 

B to H is "^ breast. B to I is ^ bust. 

Square down from I to V. 

J is halfway between H and L 

J to K is J8 of bust. 

Square up from K to E. 

In proportionate forms the strap will measure ^ 
inch less than half of the upper shoulder; in this case 
the strap is half of upper shoulder; hence our client is 
y2 inch erect; so I raise the front as from E to F J4 
inch so as to get tiie front strap long enough, but hav- 
ing obtained the depth of scye from the shoulder 
measure, I mu^t lower the bick )2 inch as from A to G. 
Lower the back whatever the front is raised. 
G to R is ^ inch in all cases. 
G to Q is }^ breast. 
B to M is >^ inch less than )-2 of lower shoulder, and 

B to N is ^ of lower shoulder and ^4 inch. 
Square up lines M and N. 
B to O is J4 breast on division. 
Square down to P. 
N to T is ' ,; breast. 
Draw a line from O to T. 



Q to S is J^ inch. 

T to I is I inch. 

C to 4 is _'^ incli. and 4 to 5 is i inch. 

B to 29 is 14 of lower shoulder and ^ inch. 

I to 2 is ^2 inch, and 5 to 6 is Y^ inch. 
F to L is J^ breast. 

Draw a line from L to 1'. 
L to U is the same as S to T. 
Draw a line from I to F. 
F 10 V is i^ breast. 

Y to 28 is I 3/^ inches. 

V to W is I inch. 

W to 27 and I to 26 is ^^ inch. 

6 to 7 is 2J8, and P to 8 is d'/i, making the two side 
pieces and back measure l-j, inch more than 3^ of 
waist measure. 

Z is J4 inch forward from O. 

P to W is 1 1 inches, which leaves 6 inches for suppres- 
sion. This I divide into 5 parts and takeout two- 
fifths from P to 9, one fifth from 2 to 11, and two- 
fifths from 12 to 10 

.•\pply front length, 13^, from X to dart, and make a 
sweep as 23 to 24. 

Apply front length 20 to W and 23 to 13. 

From button line to it, is 2 inches, and from V to front 
of dart is ^ inch. 

I I to 12 is ^8 inch 

O to P is ZVi and to i8 is 10^4 inches. 

21 to 22 is i]^ inches. 

20 to 19 is y^ inch. 

17 to 18 is 1^ inches. 

15 to 16 is \% and 13 t) 14 is ?<( inch. 

The width of lapel and collar at notch is i'^ inches; a 
button stand of js inch as per dotted line is left on 
the button side the same as on a man's vest. 

3 is halfway between 2 and Z. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTINC, LADIES' GARMENTS. 



35 



PLATE 13. 




36 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 14. 



SINGLE BREASTED JACKET. Draw line from B to O. 

— : — Draw a line from M to N. 
Hy proportions from the following measurements: M to R is >i inch. 

Breast, 34 | Uu^t, 36 | Height, 5 feet 4 inches. ^^ f,, g j^ ^^^^ ^^ ^ ^^ ^ 

TO DRAFT. D to I is ?a inch. 

Commence by squaring lines A O and .\ B C. i to 2 is i '4 inches. 

A to B is 4 inches. 2 to Z is }i inch. 

B to C is 34; breast. Z to 3 is 2|/i inches. 

A to L is '/i inch. 3 to 4 is i inch and 4 to 5 is 2?/s inches. 

L to D is 16 inches, or ^ height. C to K is >i' bieast (on division). 

D to E is 2 inches and E to F is 4 inches. Square down from K to VV. 

Square lines C and D. W to 6 is i-)^ inches. 

C to G is J4 bust. P to Q is }s breast. 

D to U is yi bust an<l U to V is i inch. T is halfway between H and G. 

Draw a line from V through G to P. N to 10 i< i }{ inches. 

C to H is J< inch less than }''■. breast. 10 to 11 is -;8 inch. 

I is halfway between C and H. 12 is halfway between 1 i and K. 

I to J is i^ inch. G to 7 and V to 8 is 2^4 inches. 

Square up lines J and H. ' The width of lapel at notch is 3 inches and the collar 

A to M is '/a breast. 2}-( inches. 

M to O is the same as C to H. Finisli as represented. 



NEW SUPERLITIVK SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



37 



PLATE 14. 




38 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 15. 



SHIRT WAIST 



The accompanying model draft is of a plain shirt 
waist. The back is cut without a seam, the front is 
plain, and the regular two-seam jacket sleeve is used in 
preference to the one seam sleeve. The draft is pro- 
duced by proportions from the following measures: 



Length of waist, - 16 
Sleeve length, - 18 



Breast, 
Bust, 



Height, 5 feet 4 inches. 

"rO DRAFT. 

Commence by sfjuaring out and down from \. 

A to B is 4 inches, and B to C is '4 breast. 

A to 29 is ys inch. 

29 to D is 16 inches, and I) to 22 is 3)4 inches. 

Square out from C to D. 

C to E is ^4 inch. 

Draw a line from A through E to 6. 

E to I is yi, and E to J is -_; breas'. 

I to K and J to L is ^ inch. 

Square up from K to L. 

E to N is }'i breast. 

Square down from N to O. 

A to 9 is }8 breast. 

K to Q is j4 inch more than ' ? breast. 

Draw a line from P to Q. 

P to \V is ii inch, and Q to K is -'b inch. 

N to 14 is I inch, and O to i is '< inch. 

1 to 2 is 3 inches. 

2 to 3 is J4 inch. 
Sweep from 3 to 4 by 14. 
E to F is J4 bust. 

F to ('. is 2 inches. 
Square down from C to H. 



34 
36 



G to M is 14; bust. 

Square up from M to'S. 

S to T is }s breast. 

Draw a line from T to G. 

S to U is ^4 inch less than '^ breast. 

U to V is y, inch. 

Draw front center line from V through ('• for points Y 

and Z. 
Draw a line from S to R. 
S to X is the same as W to R. 
Y to Z is i}4 inches. 
Dot line from V through G to 9 is the center of front, 

and the distance from 9 to 10 and V to 11 is what- 
ever is wanted for a plait. 
3 to 7, 4 to 8 and Z to 9 is 314' inches. 
Line 4-Z on the forepart is gathered or plaited on to a 

band. 
The back center is cut on the fold, the back being split 

open from 6 to 5 and a wedge inserted in the 

middle of the back to produce enough fullness over 

the hips. 
The neckband is drafted by drawing a straight line from 

24 to 25. 25 to 26 is 1^4 inches. 
26 to 27 and 24 to 28 is ij^ inches. 
From 26 to 24 is 34 inch more than half the si/.e of the 

collar. 
The standing collar is drafted by drawing a straight line 

as from 15 to 16. 15 to 16 is half the s'ze of the 

collar. 
16 to 17 is I '2 inches. 

16 to 1 8 is ;'4' inch. 

Draw a line from 18 through 17 to 20. 

17 to 20 and 15 to 19 is 3 inches. 

Point 21 is J^ inch more than half the distance from 
19 to 20. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



39 



PLATE 15. 




- !> 



40 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 16. 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK. 



The body of a double breasted frock is drafted the 
same as an ordinary waist with the exception that the 
waist seam comes from lyi to 2 inches below the 
waist line in the back as from A to D, and the same 
in front as from B to N; in tlie side it is only about 
one inch below regular waist line as from C to H 

The lapel is cut as per dotted outline and is about 
lyi inches wide at waist line and 2}4 inches at center 
of bust. The skirt is cut on the same principle as the 
regular dress skirt in the following manner: 
Draw a straight line from O to T. 
O to P is i't waist and T to S is the same. 
P to S is ' .? waist. 
P to Q is J^ waist. 

Form square P Q R S wl.icli is J-3 waist measure. 
Q to X is the same as O to P. 
Draw a line from P through X to W. 
Sweep from X to S T, using point P as pivot. 
X to I is width of back, E to D; make a mark at i, and 



place sidebody so that wai^t line will lay on sweep 

line X S, and mark off bottom of sidebody as at 

23, then place under-arm piece in same manner 

and mark off at 3-4. 
Then place forepart so that point B will lay on point 

T and mark off as at 5 6, 7 and 4, so whatever the 

forepart extends below waist line we cut off of 

skirt below sweej) line X S T. 
U V is 5 inches below X S. 
W to 15 is one inch. 

Shape spring of back skirt from 2 through U to 15. 
The full length of coat is from 37 to 39 inches. 
Make length of skirt from 2 to 15, the same as back 

skirt from D to Z. 
T to Y is the same as X to W. 
Sweep from W to Y by P for length. 
For a close fitting skirt split it open over the hips as at 

10 and II, fold skirt over at bottom as indicated 

by dotted lines 10, 11, 12 and 13. 
5 to 8 is I J J inclies and Y to 9 is 2}^ inches. 



PLATE 16. 




42 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 17. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED COAT. 



On opposite page is the diagram of a double-breasted 
long coat, antl the same mode of drafting may be used 
for a Princess dress. The back is cut on tlie fold of the 
goods and the two back and sitle seams on each side 
from the top down are finished with box plaits; the col- 
lar is a high Queen Anne and the sleeves the melon 
style; the pockets are placed in the front gore seam as 
shown in diagram. 

The draft is produced from proportions by the fol- 
lowing measures: 

Waist, - - i6 ! Breast, - - 34 

To large part of hip, 24 ] Bust, - - 36 

Full length, - 56 { Waist, - - 24 

I Hip, - - 40 

10 DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines .\ E and A M. 

A to B is ^2 inch. 

B to C is '4 breast. 

C to D is 3 '_• inches. 

B to K is waist length, to !■' prominent part of hiji, and 

to G full length of coat. 
Scpiare lines D, E, F. 
D to I is yi breast. 
D to J is }i bust. 
Square up and down from j. 
M to P is }6 bust. 
P to Q is }i breast. 
A to R is )s breast, plus )i inch. 
D to L is y'i breast. 
D to K is %i breast. 
Stjuare up from L and K. 



Draw line from C to Q. 

D to H is }j breast on division. 

Square down from H to Y. 

E to 1 is I inch. 

I to 2 \s yi inch. 



2 to 1; is 2 



/4 



inches. 



3 to 4 is I inch. 

4 to 5 is 2l^ inches. 
N to O is I inch. 

Draw line from J through O to 15. 

Shape front from | to W up to P. 

Q to W is ]{ breast. 

Make width of back from G to 9, 7^ inches. 

F to X is I inch. 

Draw a line from 2 through X to 10. 

10 to II is 15 inches. 

Draw line from 4 to 1 2 parallel with line to 10. 

12 to 13 is 15 inches. 

Y to 6 is 2_;4! inches. 

6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

7 to 8 is I ?4 inches. 

Make width of lapel from 15 to 16 half the distance 

there is fr<)m 13 to 15. 
Make width of lapel at waist length at 17 half the width 

of forepart from S to o. 
Lapel at top from 18 to 19 is 2^4 inches. 

THE COLLAR. 

Place corner of square at P, letting short arm rest on W. 

Square down from P to U. 

Square up and down from U. 

U to V is I inch. 

Add y^ of an inch spring in back at T. 

Shape as represented. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



4j 




44 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 18. 



SINGLE BREASTED OVERCOAT. 

Tne accompanying draft is that of a ladies' overcoat. 
This style of garment is cut to fit medium close in the 
back, with a loose-fitting front; the side seams have an 
opening of ten inches up from the bottom; there are 
vertical side pockets. The front of the coat is finished 
with a fly. The width of the lapel at notch is 3 inches 
and the collar at notch is i 3^ inches; the stand of the 
collar in middle of the back is i>4 and the turn-over 
1 3^ inches. The sleeves are cut the same as a gentle- 
man's overcoat sleeve, with a 2 '4 inch cuff at hand. 
The draft is produced by proportions from the follow- 
ing measurements: 
Waist length, 
Full length, 



16 

44 



Breast, 

Waist, 

Hip, 

TO DRAIT. 



38 
42 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is J4 inch. B to C is 2 inches. 

C to I) is 1 3 inch more than ' ; breast. 

B to E is waist length and to E full length. 

E to W is 5 inches. Square lines C, D, E, W and F. 

D to M is }{, breast. 

M to I and M to J is yi breast. 



I to L and J to K is J^ inch. 

Square down from M and up from L and K. 

A to U is }i breast. U to V is ^2 inch. 

T to 23 is 3s inch. 

E to I is 3a inch; draw a line from i through W for 

point 13. 
I to 2 is }4 inch more than ^ waist. 
N to 3 and N to 4 is 3/4 inch. 
3 to 5 is Yo inch more than ^ waist. 
F to 14 is i/^ and W to 9 is );( breast. 
B to 26 is 16 inches (^twice the waist length or half of 

the etitire height of figure). 
W to 10 is i^ inches; draw line through 10 and 26 for 

point 15. 
23 to Z is yi breast. 

X to II is iJ/( inches and 12 to 16 is ^<3 breast. 
D to G is half of bust measure (19 inches); square 

down to O and go out from O to P, i inch; draw 

front center line through G and P up to Q and 

down to Y. 
G to H is )^ bust, and Q to R is 's breast. 
Draw a line from S to T. 
S to 24 is the same as V to 23. 
G to 17 and P to 18 is 2^ inches. 

The collar is drafted the same as for a gentleman's 
coat. 20 to 21 is I inch and 20 to 22 is i^ inches. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



45 



PLATE 18. 




46 



NEAV SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 19. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED PALETOT. 



The draft is produced by proportions from the fol- 
lowing measurements: 



Natural waist, 
Full length, 
Sleeve length, 
Breast, 



16 

56 

iS 

TO DRAFT 



Bust, 


36 


Waist, 


24 


Hip, 


40 >^ 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 4 inches. 

B to C is 3i( breast. 

A to D is 3/§ inch. 

D to E is 16 inches, being }( the entire height for 

natural waist length. 
E to F is 4 inches (being ,',. of the entire height). 
D to G is full length, 56 inches. 
Square out lines C, D, E, F and G. 
C to P is }'2 of breast measure. 
C to Q is )^ of bust measure. 
Square down through Q to U. 
U to V is I inch in all cases. 
Draw front center line through V and Q. 
C to H is }} and to I is -,; breast. 
I to J and H to K is y^ inch. 
Square up lines J and K. 
C to M is ij breast. 
Square down from M through N and Z. 
D to I is J 8 breast. 
Q to R is ;^ bust. 

Square up from R to S and draw a line from S to B. 
L S B will locate point 15 of front shoulder and point L 

on the back. 
E to 4 is 14^ inch. 

4 to 5 is yi waist (2 inches). 

5 to 6 is ^ inch. 

N to O and O to 9 is i^ inch. 
9 to 8 is }■(, waist (2 inches). 

6 to 7 is ye breast (2 inches). 



I to 2 is J^ inch. 
L to 3 is 5^ inch. 

3 to 13 is ytj waist. 

The width of back from 3 to 13 is the same as from 

4 to 5. 
f-^ inch is taken out between the back and sidebody at 

point 13. 
14 is halfway between 13 and M. 
J to 12 is ,■$ breast. 
:y^ inch is taken out at point 12. 
O to 00 is I inch. 

00 to 10 is 3^ inches. 
ID to 1 1 is I J4 inches. 

F to Y is ,'. breast. 

Draw a line from 5 tlirough point Y for points 32 and 

^^T,, and draw a line from point 7 through 25 for 

point 34. 
Z to 26 and 27 is ,V hip. 
27 to 29 is A hip. 
G to 28 and G to 38 is '4 bust. 
T to 16 is ^S breast. 
16 to 40 is yi inch. 
40 to 38 is 4^ inches. 
Q to 37, V to 36, and 35 to 41 is 4^^ inches. 

II to 21 is I inch. 

The pocket opening is from 21 to 22, which is the same 

distance as from 20 to 23. 
The sidebody extending down the lower portions forms 

into a flap, which is made to go in or out of the 

pocket. 
The collar is drafted by S(|uaring down from T to 17, 

ys breast. 
Make distance from 17 to 18 ^ of an inch less than 

neck gorge, and stretch the lower edge of collar 

from 17 to 18. 
If lower edge of collar cannot be stretched out }^ of an 

inch on each side, it is best to cut the under collar 

through as per dotted line, adding .'h of an inch 

spring at each seam, as shown by dotted lines. 

1 7 to 39 and 18 to 19 is 4 inches, orwhateversize desired. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



47 



PLATE 19. 




26 I 27 29 28 



48 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 20. 



BOX OVERCOAT 

The general cut and make is the same as a gentle- 
man's box overcoat. The front is finished with a fly 
and closes with holes and five buttons. The width of 
lapel and collar at notch is 2 inches, the stand of the 
collar in center of back is 1 '^^ and the turn over 1^4 
inches. 

The corners are all rounded off. There are two out- 
side circular side pockets with ample flap to go out or 
in. The ticket pocket is placed in the inside of the 
right hand side pocket. There are two inside breast 
pockets. The vents in the side seams are 8^ inches 
long. 

The sleeves are cut the same as for a gentleman's 
coat and finished at hantl with a cuff 2 '4 inches high 
with round corners. 

The draft is produced by proportions from the fol- 
lowing measurements: 



Waist length. 


16 


Breast, 


34 


Full length, 


M 


Bust, 


36 


Sleeve length. 


i&% 


Hips, 


40 > 




TO D 


RAFT. 





Square out and down from A. 
A to B is y, inch. 
B to C is y^ breast. 
C to D is 3 I/, inches. 

B to E is natural waist length, i6 inches, and to G 37 
inches, full length of coat. 



E to F is 8 inches (half of waist length). 

Square lines D, E, F and G. 

D to H is half of bust measure (18 inches). 

H to I is I inch for ease. Square up and down from I. 

J to 20 is I inch. Draw a line through I and 20. 

K to M is ^ bust. Draw a line from M to C. 

K to L is 1-^ breast. 

D to N is y'i and D to O is JS breast. 

N to P and O to Q is J^ inch. Square up and down 
from P and Q. 

E to V is J^ inch. Draw center line of back from A 
through V. 

.A to S is J^ breast. 

R to T is J^ inch. 

M to U is the same as S to T. 

The width of back from W to Z is obtained by squaring 
down from P. Hollow side seam ^ inch at the 
waist line as from 4 to 7. 

P to 3 is (*2 breast. 

Z to Y is 4 inches, or the lower hip measure may be 
taken and applied from W to Z and X to Y, one- 
half of the lower hip (in this case the lower hip is 
43) and 5 inches, (or whatever is wanted for full- 
ness). 

Draw a line from 3 through point Y and hollow side 
seam }^ inch at waist line, as from 5 to 6. 

P to I is )^ breast and Q to 2 is "4 inch. 

I to 12 and 20 to II is 2 inches 

To locate the pocket square down from Q to point 16, 
which is 2 inches below waist line 15. 



NEW SUPERLATIVK SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' (lARMKN'TS. 



O 



PLATE 20. 




so 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 21. 



RAGLAN OVERCOAT. 



This garment is made e.\actly the same as a gentle- 
man's Raglan; the center of back is without a seam, 
and there are vents in the sides extending 4 inches 
up to 18 and 19. The length averages 22 to 24 inches 
for a figure 5 feet 4 inches high. The draft is produced 
by proportions from the following measures: 

Breast, 34 | Bust, 36 | Height, 5 ft. 4 inches. 

TO URAFT. 

S([uare out and down from .A. 

A to B is 2.;« inches. 

15 to C is )i bust. 

A to N is .'K inch. 

N to D is 16 inches ( '4 of entire height). 

D to E is 8 inches ( '» of entire height). 

Square lines B, C, D and E. 

C to F is j4 and C to G is ; j breast. 



F to T is ^s inch and G to 2 is >4 inch. 

Square up and down from i and 2. 

.•\ to O is Js breast. Draw a line from O to P. 

P to Q is -'8 inch and O to R is V^ inch. 

U to 7 is .-a inch and V to 8 is i }^ inches. 

3 is halfway between N and C. Draw a line from 2 to 3. 

C to H is }^ breast and C to I is >^ bust. 

J is halfway between H and I. 

J to K is ys bust. Square up to L. 

L to M is ys breast. Draw a line from M to P. 

M to S is the same as R to Q. 

U to 6 is }2 inch. Draw a line from T through 6 for 

spring. 
L to /, is '<( inch more than }'& breast. 
Square down from I to W. 

W to X is I inch. Draw a line from I through X to Y. 
Y to 10 is }i inch. 
I to II and X to 12 is 2j^ inches. 

The sleeve for this coat is Plate 32 on page 64. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CLJTIING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



S' 



PLATE 21. 




52 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 22. 



RAGLAN ULSTER. 



This garment is made of regular gentlemen's lambs' 
wool overcoating. The front of the garment is cut 
double-breasted and closes with six buttons. The back 
has a center seam as far as the natural waist and from 
the waist down there is a reverse box plait in the center 
of back and regular coat plait on the side seams from 
the waist down. 

The storm collar is cut in three pieces and attached 
to the back, forepart and sleeve, as per illustrations on 
the diagram. There are outside side-pockets with flaps 
to go in and out. The garment is close fitting in the 
back and sides at waist anil traces the form slightly at 
the waist line in front. The draft is produced in the 
following manner from the following measurtnu nts: 

Upper shoulder, - -3/4 I Breast, - 34 

Lower shoulder, - 22^ Bust, - 36 

Natural waist length, - 16 Waist, - 24 

Full length, - 50 Hip, - 4°^^ 

Under arm length, - &'_^ Neck. - 15 

Sleeve length, - 18 

TO 1)U.\I I'. 

Scjuare out and down from A. 

A to B is i'3 inch. 

B to D is j i of upper shoulder measure. 

B to E is natural waist and to G full length of coat. 

E to F is 8 inches (half of waist length). 

D to C is }i bust (on square). 

Square lines C, D, F and G. 

D to H is half of breast and 1) to J is half of bust 

measure. 
I is halfway between H anil J. 
I to O is }8 bust. Square up from O to 1' and draw a 

line from 1' to J. 
Square down from J to K. K to L is one inch. Draw 

a line from J through L for front center line. 
D to U is J4 and D to T is }i of lower shoulder measure. 
T to 7 is }2 inch and U to 8 is j.; inch. 
Square up lines 7 and 8. 

A to R is 's breast. Draw a line from R to S. 
R to 18 is 14 inch. 



P to Q is i}j breast. Draw a line from Q to S. 

Q to 19 is the same as 18 to S. 

S to I is 2}( inches. 

E to 3 is 2 inches. 

G to 27 is 5-4 breast. 

D to V is yi breast. Square down from V through W 
X to Y. 

3 to 4 is ?4 inch and 4 to 5 is 4 inches. 

Y to 28 is }-6 breast. 

28 to 29 is }4 breast measure (or go in from K to 31 I'j 
breast and draw a line from 31 through point F for 
run of spring 1. 

X to 13 is I inch. Draw a line from 13 to G. 

W to 6 is I J- inches. 

J to 22 is 4}^ inches. L to 23 is 3^ inches. 

M to 24 and N to 25 is 4 inches. 

N to 26 and M to i i is 4 inches. 

L to 9 is 3^^ inches and 9 to 10 is i}^ inches. 

7 to 14 is J 3 breast. 

From 16 to front of collar is 3,^ inch and i inch V is 
taken out from end of gorge to 20. 

A line drawn from point 7 through 20 will give run of 
lapel, and a line drawn from T through end of neck 
gorge will give run of collar. 

20 to 2 I is 5^ inches. 

The collar being attached to the coat, it is drafted 

as follows: 

Stjuare up from t8 and make the height of collar accord- 
ing to style of fancy; in this draft the height of col- 
lar is 3i;j inches, the width of top edge of collar 
at the back is '4 breast. 

Q to 15 is I inch. Square up from 15 and mark off 
height of collar, ^i.^ inches. 

The shaded portion of back and front shoulder is cut 
oti and added to the sleeve, so as to form the raglan 
effect. The portion of the collar attached to the 
forepart must be shaped with the iron so as to have 
it fit up to the neck. Stretch forepart at 15 and 16 
and shrink it in the middle so as to give it the 
proper curve; unless this can be done, the collar 
and gorge must be cut apart as per broken lines 
between 15 and 16. 
The sleeve for this coat is Plate 23 on page 65. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUPTINC. LADIES' GARMENTS. 



53 



PLATE 22. 




54 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 23. 



DOUBLE BREASTED FUR JACKET. 



The draft is produced from the following measures 
by the regular proportionate method: 

Height, 5 feet 4 inches. 



reast, 


36 


Sleeve length, 18 


Hip, 


42 


ust, 


38 


Waist, 26 

TO DRAFT. 


Neck, 


16 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is }i inch. 

B to C is 2}( inches. 

C to D is j/i breast and > .; inch. 

B to E is 16 inches (one-fourth of height). 

E to F is 6 inches. 

Square lines C, D, E and F. 

D to G is J/3 and to H y-i of breast. 

G to J and H to I is }4 inch. 

Square up from I and J. 

D to M is 1 3 of bust measure (19 inches). 

M to N is I inch for ease. 

N to R is j4 inch more than 34^ bust. 

Square up to S and draw a line from S to 32. 

A to V is ^ breast and V to 3 i is '/, inch. 

32 to 33 is Ys inch. 

S to 30 is the same as 31 to t;;^. 

O to 1' is I inch. 



Draw a line from P through N for point Q. 

Q to U is ys breast. 

U to T is J4 inch and U to 21 is ^ inch. 

21 to 22 is 5 inches. 

N to 20 is 4 '4 and 17 to 1 8 is 3 J^ inches. 

E to I is -'b inch. 

I to 2 is I V. inches and 2 to 



is % inch. 



3 to 4 and L to 5 is 2 } j inches. 

14 to 13 is I inch and 16 to 15 is i }{ inches. 

L to 34 is I J^ inches. 

34 to 6 is 2^ inches and 6 to 7 is i^ inches. 

10 to II is ^ inch. 

R to 8 is i^ inches and 8 to 9 is i^ inches. 

K to 35 is 3^ inch. U to 38 is 4}^ inches. 

3^ to 36 is i^, and }i inch is taken out between side- 
body and back at 36. 

Point 37 is halfway between 36 and 35. 

The collar is drafted by making a square as from 23 to 
24, and 23 to T. 23 to 24 is }{ and 23 to T is yj 
neck. Shape from 24 to T, and divide collar into 
three parts as at 25 and 26, where the pieces 27 and 
28 are inserted, each piece is ^ inch wide and ij^ 
inches high. 

Square up from 24 to 29 by 25 and add ^4 inch spring 
from 29. 

The width of the collar is usually 4}^ inches all around. 
The sleeve is Plate 24 on page 56. 



NEW SUFKRLATIVK SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



55 



PLATE 23. 




56 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 24. 



SLEEVES. 



The regular sleeve is produced from the measure of 
the armscye, which is as follows: 

Width at elbow, 
Width at hand, 



12 

8 



Length of sleeve to elbow, Sji 
Full length of sleeve, 17 

Scye, - - - - 16 

Add I inch to scye 16, making it 17 for drafting 
power. 

TO DRAKT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is A and B to C is ,\ breast. 

A to E is ;4 breast. 

E to D is J4 inch. 

D to L is full length of sleeve (18 inches). 

M is halfway between D and L. 

L to O is 134; and M to N is i inch. 

E to F is yz breast. 

H is halfway between E and F. 

Square up and down from H and draw a line from E 

to J. 
G to K and G to Y is ji breast. 
Y to Z is '4 inch. 
Square out from M to P. 
Draw a line from E to N and N to O. 
Square out from N to Q by O. 
X is halfway between P and Q. 
N to X is }i inch more than }'} breast. 
O to R is ■/< inch less than j/} breast. 
Lay corner of square at R and square (), R, S. 
D to U, M to N and O to S is >2 inch. 
D to V, N to W and O to T is 14 inch. 
The sleeve is finished with a cuff 2I4 inches high. 
Shape as represented. 




NEW SUPKRI-ATIVH SYSTKM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 25. 



REGULAR OVERCOAT SLEEVE. 



The sleeve is drafted by the jjroportion <if the breast 
as follows: 

Square out and down from A. 
A to B is i'a and A to C is '4' breast. 
C to D is y-: inch. Scjuare lines B, (' and I). 
D to E is half and I) to V is full length of sleeve. 
E to H and F to G is one inch. 
Shape inside of sleeve. 

C to K is J4 breast (on divisions on sipiare). 
1, is halfway between C and K. Si|uare up and down 

from L to M and N. 
O is halfway between L and N. 
K to R is \l,l inches. 
Draw a Una from C to M. 
C;, H, G is inside center of sleeve. 
Add to top sleeve '^ inch as from D to Q, and reduce 

undersleeve same amount as from D to 1'. 
Square out from E to I by F and froiu II to J by (!. 
The elbow is at point V which is halfway between I 

and J. 
\l to \' is I inch more than ' ,; and G to U is i inch 

more than yl breast. 
Lay corner of s(iuare at U, let long arm rest on J, and 

square J, U and G. 
The cuff is drafted from the sleeve as per illustration; 

leave 3/4 inch for turn-up on the cuff, and cut off 

same amount from the sleeve. 
Shape as represented, and add seams when cutting the 

cloth. 




58 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 26. 



SLEEVE FOR BASQUES AND SHIRT- 
WAISTS. 

K) DRAKI'. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is I'i and A to C is '4' breast. 

C to G is y^ inch. 

Square out from B and G. 

C to D is J4 breast and \\ is halfway between L) and C. 

Square up from E to V. 

Square down from D to L. 

G to H is I inch less than regular sleeve length. 

G to I is )/, of sleeve length. 

Square out from J to L. 

I to K and H to I is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from G to K and K to I. 

Lay corner of scjuare at K, let long-arm rest on I, and 

sijuare out from K to M. 
K to N is y'i breast, and I to O is ],,{ breast. 
G to Q and G to P is y^ inch. 
D to R is iS breast. 

H to T Is 1 inch and O to S is i ' 4 inches. 
Shape as represented and add seam when cutting the 

cloth. 




Ni;\V SUFERI.ATIVR SYSTEM OF CUTTING I,ADIES' GARMENTS. 



59 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 27. 



SLEEVE FOR BASQUES AND SHIRT- 
WAISTS. 

VO UK AFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is ,2 and A to C is '.^ breast. 

C to I) is yi inch. 

C to G is Ji breast an<l H i.s halfway between G and G; 

S(|uare up to I and draw a Hne from I to G. 
D to F is iS inches actual length, and E is halfway be 

tween D and F. 
E to N and F to 1* is i inch. 

Square out from I'l to O by F and from N to Q by 1'. 
N to V is '.^ breast and P to R is '4 breast. 
Lay arm long of sciuare on V and short arm on P, letting 

corner of square touch point R, and square V, R, P. 

V to U is y^ inch. 

D to M and D to L is Jj inch. 

G to J is l(, breast; sweej) out from J to K by V. 

G to K is ^3 breast ami K to T is ^^ inch. 

G to S is ^'4 inch. 

F to X is I '4 inches and R to W is i-'4' inches. 

V is halfway between P and R. 




6o 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 28. 



JACKET SLEEVE. 



TO UKAFT. 



and A to C is '.^ breast. 



S()uare out and down from .A. 

A to B is ,'4, 

C to G is jj breast. 

H is halfway between C and G. 

Square up and down from H to I and J, and tlraw a 

line from I to C. 
Points O, P are 34 inch below line C. 
Apply sleeve length (iS^a) from O to E. 
U is halfway between O and E. 
D to F is 2 inches. 

F to R is ' ; breast and R to K is i inch. 
E to N, and C to O is yi inch. 
E to M is 5^< inches. 
G to Sis '6 breast, and T is halfway between \l 

and ]. 
Lay corner of square at E; let long-arm rest on S; 

square across from I", to M. 
E to Q and C to P is '/i inch. 
K to R is -'4 inch. 
G to L is I inch less than 'o breast. 

Shape as represented, and add seams when cutting 
the goods. 




iNEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



6i 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 29. 



JACKET SLEEVE WITH CUFF. 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by s(iuaring out and down from A. 

A to B is 'o and \ to C is '4 breast. 

A to M is )j breast. 

Square down from M to L and draw a line from L to C. 

C to N is ^4 breast. 

Square up from N to () and draw a line from () to C. 

M to P is ,V, breast. 

C to Z is ?/i inch. 

Z to E is sleeve length, iS inches. 

L) is halfrt'ay between E and Z. 

Square out from D to IL 

U to F and E to G is i inch. 

Lay corner of s<|uare at F and let long arm rest un G 

and sipiarc out from F to 1. 
J is halfway between I and II. 
I' to J is J2 inch more than '3 breast. 
G to K is ?'4 inch more than '4 breast. 
Lay square so short arm rests on G and long-arm on J, 

with corner of sijuare at point K. Square J, K 

and G. 
I to S and t" to T is ?s inch. 
C to U and G to W is .^ s inch. 
L to \' is ',, breast. 
Sweep from Y to Q by ]. 
Y to Q is '/3 breast. 
J to X and D to R is yi inch. 
Add seams when cutting the cloth. 




62 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 30. 



LARGE TOP SLEEVE. 



Square up from 23 to 24, and sweep from 21 to 22 as 
shown in diagram. 



Sleeves are all cut from a regular close fitting sleeve 
pattern (see diagram of the regular sleeve draft). 

10 I)R.\FT. 

Commence by sipiaring out and down. 

From I to 2 is /j scye. 

From I to 3 is }{ scye. 

3 to 10 is elbow, and to i i full length of sleeve. 

Scjuare across from points 2, 3 and 10. 

10 to 13 is I inch. 

1 1 to I 2 is I inch. 

3 to .\ on diagonal line is }i scye. 

5 is halfway between 3 and 4. 

Square up and down from 5. 

Draw a line from 3 to 6, and shape toj) sleeve as shown 
in diagram. 

Make width of sleeve from 13 to 14, !_■ inch less than 
measure, and add from 14 to elbow i inch for the 
upper sleeve. The top sleeve from 12 to 17 is ?4 
inch more than half of the width at hand, and the 
upper sleeve is '4 inch smaller. 

3 to 15 and 12 to 16 is =4 inch added to the upper 
sleeve and like amount is taken olt the under sleeve. 

HOW 10 I'ROHLHK A L.ARGE TOl' Sl.KKVE. 

From 14 to double circle below 18 is 3^2 inches. 

Split under sleeve from 19 to 18, and swingout top part 

of sleeve whatever amount of fullness is wanted and 

draw a line from 3 to 21. 
23 is halfway between 3 and 21. 
Draw a line from 19 to 20. 




The fullness on top sleeve is to be shirred in. 
Add seams when cutting the cloth. 



NEW SUPRRLATIVK SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



63 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 31. 



SLEEVE WITH LARGE TOP. 

lo DU.VFT. 

Sciuare out and down from A. 

A to B is ,'2 and A to C '4 breast and C to H is yi inch. 

S(iuare lines C and 11. 

C to D is !j breast and E is halfway between C and 1). 

Siiuare tip and down from K and draw a line from 1-' to C. 

H to J is length of sleeve (which averages i.S inches 1. 

I is halfway between H and J. 

I to K is one inch and J to I, is 1 inch. 

Square out from I to T and from K to L by K I.. 

The ell)ow is at X, which is half»vay between T and U. 

K to V is half of width (which is usually it% to 12 

inches). 
Lay long arm of scpiare at V and short arm at I. an; 

measure oit from L to S half of width at hand, 

which is usually <) to 9J2 inches, and mark oft 

sleeves L, S, \' and D. 
L to M, K to P and H to N is >< inch. 
L lo R, K to () and H to Z is the same. 
D to W is one inch. Shape undersleeve as per diagram. 
This will produce a close fitting sleeve and tlie extra 
fullness of top sleeve is obtained in the following manner: 
Go out from N to O 1 '4' inches and shape upper sleeve 

as from () to A. 
Sweep from .\ through G to X, using point I'^ as ])ivot. 
W to Y is 2 inches. 
Shape under sleeve from Y to T and sweep from Y to X 

by T. 
Where the two sweeps meet at X is the height and width 

of top sleeve. 
In sewing the sleeve together, the under sleeve cm 
the inseam goes on even from M to about 4 inches uj), 
then a little full from this point up to the top, on the 
outside the over sleeve should be held a little full over 
the elbow, and from then up the under sleeve should go 
on a little full to the top sleeve. Then by pressing the 
seams the sleeve will get into its natural and good shape 
without any other stretching or shrinking. The top of 
the sleeve is shirred in. 




64 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



SLEEVE FOR RAGLAN COAT. PLATE 32. 



THE RAGLAN SLEEVE. 



PRODUCF.D I RO.M THE REOULAR SLEEVE. 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is ,'2 and A to C is j^ breast. 

C to D is yi inch. 

Square lines B, C and I). 

B to E is }4 inch less than y', breast (i6 on halves). 

F is halfway between H and E. Scjuare up from F to 

G and down to H. 
Draw a line from G to E. 
Shape top sleeve from B through G to E. 
B to W is '(i and B to X is }i breast. 
J to K is 18 inches, length of sleeve. 
L is halfway between J and K. Sipiare out from L. 
L to N is one inch and K to P is one inch. 
Lay corner of square at N, let long arm rest on P, and 

scjuare out from N to O. 
N to V is y'i breast and V is halfway between lines O 

and 9. 
P to U is I4 breast; lay corner of square at U, lay short 

arm of square on 1' and long arm on V and square 

V, U, P. 
P to Q and J to R is ji inch. 
P to T and J to S is J^ inch. 
I is halfway between F and H. 
This completes the regular sleeve. 

The Raglan sleeve is drafted in the following man- 
ner: The shaded portion on coat draft, Plate 51, 
represents the part that is cut oft the shoulder and 
added to the sleeve. 

M to 17 is yi inch. Point 16 is according to style 
and fancy. Cut off front shoulder as per shaded por- 
tion. Cut off shaded portion of the back and lay the 
pieces aside. The back notch for sleeve is at point 13 
and the front notch, point 15, is ^ inch up from 
point 2. 

Measure front of shoulder from 15 through 16 up to 
M and apply same distance with 1)4 inches added for 
fullness on to the regular sleeve. Draft from E to point 
4, and sweep back to point 5, then measure back of coat 
from 13 through 14 up to point R. Apply this distance 



with ^'i inch added for fullness from B to 3 on sleeve 
draft and sweep from 3 to 5. The intersection of these 
two sweeps will locate point 5, which is the top of sleeve. 
Ne.xt take the shaded portion cut from shoulder and 
shape top of sleeve, adding to the sleeve the same 




amount that has been cut off from the front shoulder. 
The undersleeve remains the same as for a regular coat. 

Point B on sleeve goes to point B on back, and 
point E on sleeve goes to 15 on coat. 

S to 6 on sleeve is the same as M to 17 on coat. 

Shape as represented and add seams all over. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF SLEEVES PLATE 33. 



SLEEVE FOR RAGLAN ULSTER 

ON l'A(,K 53. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 14 and A to C is J4 breast. 

C to 1) is Jj inch. 

Square lines H, C and D. 

B to l") is ^{. inch less than }!■ breast. 

F is halfway between B and V.. Stiuare u]i from F to 

G and down to H. 
Draw a line from G to 1'. 
Shape top sleeve from B through G to E. 
B to W is '6 and B to X is ' ^ breast. 
J to K is 18 inches, length of sleeve. 
I, is halfway between J and K. Scjuare out from I,. 
I, to N is I incli and K to P is i inch. 
Lay corner of square at N, let long arm rest on V, and 

Eiiuare out from N to O. 
N to \' IS 3i breast and V is halfway between lines O 

and 9. 
I' to U is '4 breast; lay corner of square at U, lay short 

arm of square on P and long arm on V and square 

V, U, P. 
P to Q and J to R is '_. inch. 
P to T and J to S is j- inch. 
I is halfway Ijetween F and H. 
This completes the oriiinary sleeve. 
/, is halfway between .\ and 7. 

Draw a line from F through Z up to V ; then take the 
pieces cut off the shoulders (as indicated by the shaded 
portion) and place them on top of sleevehead so that 
the shoulder points will meet on line at Y; shape sleeve 
from 1, hollow out •; inch as at 4, gradually running out 
to point at B; then shape front of sleeve from 2, hollow 
3» inch as at 5, running line gradually into the top sleeve; 
this completes the raglan sleeve. Ne.xt add the sidepart 
of collar to sleeve by squaring up from i to 5, and mark 
off .3^ inches; 5 to 6 is ye breast; draw a red line from 



2 to 6, and mark off 3^4 inches; shape as represented 
and the sleeve is completed. 

Add seams all over when cutting the goods. 




66 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 34. 



THE FOUNDATION SKIRT. 



HAHIT BACK.. 



The skirt is cut in one piece, close-fitting, without 
any plaits in the back, and may be made up plain with 
a seam in middle of the back or front, or on the right 
side in front as per dotted line LT T. The accompany- 
ing diagram is only intended for a foundation draft and 
the cutter can change the location of seams to suit style 
and fancy. The draft is produced from the following 
measures. 



Waist, 

Length of skirt, 



23 I Hip (measure taken 
40 I 5 in. below waist), 38 



TO DRAFT. 



Square out and down from .'\. 

A to C is 5 inches (^.'s of entire length). 

A to B is 40 inches full length. 

Square out from C to D and from B to F. 

C to D is yi hip (19 on halves). 

B to F is J^ of hip (19 inches). 

Sweep up from F to G by B and from D to E by C, lay 
long stick so that it touches sweeps as at J and G, 
and draw line I J 11. 

Point I is halfway between A and H: lay long arm of 
sipiare alongside line J H, and slide sq\iare up 
till the short arm touches point i, then square out 
from I to locate point H, then measure down from 
H to I full length, 40 inches, and square back 
from I to X. 

Square out from I to M, and mark off 19 inches (half 
of hi]) measure). 

Square out from H to 2. 

Point J is 5 inches down from H. 

Square out from J to K. 

J to K is ]-2 hip (19 on halves). 



Sweep up from K to R by J. 

Sweep up from M to N by I; lay long stick so it touches 
outside of sweeps and draw line through N and L. 

Point 2 is halfway between points H and O, lay long 
arm of square alongsitle line N O, and slide square 
up till short arm touches point 2, and square out 
from 2 to locate point O. 

O to P is length, 40 inches. 

Square forward from P to Y. 

O to Q is ly, inches. 

Square forward from O to R, and where this line crosses 
sweep at 7 is the top of back; lay end of yard and 
a quarter stick at 7, let it cross line K O Q, 5 
inches down from 7 as at L, and draw back center 
line from 7 through L to S. 

7 to S is 41 inches, which is one inch more than the 
front length. 

Point 8 is y^ inch up from P. 

Shajje bottom from B through I and 8 to S. 

li to T is yi hip (19 on two-thirds). 

A to 3 is '6 waist (23 on sixths) and 3 to W is i inch. 

Draw a line from W to T. 

W to 4 is ?4 inch. 

4 to 5 is y inch more than 'g waist, and 7 to 6 is ^ 
inch more than y waist; this extra half inch will 
make the skirt one inch wider than the waist meas- 
ure; this extra amount is fulled onto the waistband. 
This draft is laid out full length for a walking skirt; 
shorten pattern at bottom two to three inches, ac- 
cording to style and fancy. 
The skirt is usually stitched five to six rows, around 

the bottom, half inch apart, and if the opening is in 

center of front or on the side the stitching extends up 

to the waist; if the seam is in center of the back there 

is a stitching on each side of the seam, and the opening 

of the skirt is usually on the right side, as from W ex- 
tending down 8 inches through U. 



NEW SUPP:RLATIVE system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PLATE 34. 




68 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 35. 



THREE-GORED COSTUME SKIRT. 



The draft is produced from the following measures 
in the following manner: 



Front length, 
Side length, 
Back, 



41 
4i>^ 



Waist, 
Hip, 



24 

40 



42 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 
A to B is front length, 41 inches. 

A to C is s}i inches, being one-eighth of entire length. 
Square out from B and C. 
C to D is }( of hip measure 1 20 on halves). 
B to F is }i of hip measure (20 inches). 
Sweep up from F by B, and from D by C and lay yard- 
stick so that it strikes outer edges of sweep as at 
E and G, and draw a line as from K to J; divide 
distance from A to H, and make a mark as at I. 
Lay long arm of square on line G E and slide 
square up till short arm strikes point I, then square 
across from I to J; turn square over and square 
out from J to R. 
J to L is ;8 of front length (s^s inches). Square out 

from L to M. 
L to M is '4 of hip measure (20 on halves). 
Sweep up from M, by using point L as pivot. 
J to K is front length (41 inches). Square out each 

way from K. 
K to O is 14 hip measure (20 inches). 
Sweep up from O by K, lay long stick on outer edges 

of sweep and draw a line through (^ and N. 
S is halfway between J and R. Lay long arm of square 
on line Q N, and slide square up until short arm 
lies on point S, and square out from S to locate 
point T. 
T to U is 1J2 inches. Draw a line from U to J. 
T to P is front length (41 inches). Square out both 

ways from P. 
P to W is ^4 hip measure (20 on halves). Sweep up 
from W to X by P, and draw a line from V through 
sweep at X. 



Points I and 4 are }< inch above line I J, and point 5 
is ?4 inch above line J S; point V is located where 
sweep line M N crosses line J U. 

P to 13 is y^ inch. Sweep from 13 through Z to 7 by 
using point U as pivot. 

Z to 7 is 3 inches or whatever is wanted for e.xtra full- 
ness at bottom. 

9 to 10 is -'4 inch. 

Point Y is at intersection of lines Q U and Z V. Shape 
back gore from Y through 10 to 7. 

The back of the skirt is finished with a bo.x pleat 2 
inches wide at waist. 

V to 1 1 is 2 inches and Z to 8 is (half hip) 10 inches. 
Sweep from Z to 8 by point T. 

Line 8 t i is cut on the fold when cutting the cloth. 
A to I is y'i waist; i to 2 is i inch, and 2 to 4 is ?4' inch. 
K to 3 is yi the distance from B to K. Draw a line 

from 2 to 3, and shape frontage from i to 20, and 

side gore from 4 to 20. 
4 to 5 is ' ,i waist plus )( inch. 

V to 5 is yi waist plus }{ inch. 

Cut out V as from 5 to 6. This will make the waist 
one inch wider than actual measure, skirt to be 
fulled on to the band '4' inch between 4 and 5 and 
}l inch between 6 and V. 
Incuttingskirtswith a flounce at bottom, the pattern is 
produced from this same foundation draft. Cut pattern 
through as per broken lines from i through 20, 21, 19, 
18, 15, 16 to 14. These points are according to taste 
and fancy. In this case the distance from Z to 14 and 
17 to 16 is 18 inches; the distance from B to 17 is 
28 inches, or the width of the goods; 16 to 17 is a seam. 
In order to produce a bell bottom effect split the pat- 
tern through from 18 to 23 and from 19 to 22, and 
insert from yj to i inch at 22, and from i to i>4 inches 
at 23, running out to nothing at 18 and 19. The same 
method may be employed in producing bell at the bot- 
tom in the back, or go up from 14 to 25 two inches, 
reduce same amount from length at bottom and add 
bell as at 24. 

Add seams all over when cutting the goods. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OV CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



69 



PLATE 35. 




NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 36. 



FIVE GORED SKIRT. P to Q is front length, 41 inches. 

P to S is T inch, and F to line 6 is ji inch. Shape top 

This skirt.is cut in five gores, with an inverted plait ^j ^^,^i^^ f^^,„^ ^ through 6 to L. 

in back. Draft is produced from following measures: 3^^^,.^^^ ^^^ f^,,,^^ ,_, (^, j, ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^,|, j^^,,, ^ ^^ y 
Front length, 41 | Waist, 24 bv 

Side length, 4i;-' Hip, 40}. Q to R is '4 of hip I20J4 «" halves ). 

Back length, 4^ ■ S to W is js of front length (20^4; on fourths). Draw 

TO DRAFT. a line from V through W to U. Tiiis line is the 

Square out and down from .\. back center of the skirt. U to V is 42 inches. 

A to B is }s of front length (20-V4 on ,'4)- U to 9 is 2 inches, and V to 7 is 4 inches. 

A to C is 4}4 inches. Square out from B and C. 7 to 8 is i ^4 inches. 

B to D is 34 of liip measure (20J4' on halves). This portion is for the plait, which is turned under, 
C to E is yi of hip measure (2o'4' inches). Swee[) up and the double lines bounded by 9-14 and 11-12 

from D to K by B, and from K to H by C. represent the underneath plait. 

Lay long stick so it will touch sweeps K and H and Q to 12 and 8 to 1 1 is 2 yi inches. 

draw line H F. I is halfways between C and H. 

G is halfway between A and M. I to Z is 2 inches. 

Lay long arm of square on line K M and slide up X is halfway between H and Q. 

till short arm strikes point G and square across X to Y is i inch. 

from G for point, then reverse scpiare and sijuare Divide the waist measure into five parts and we have 

out from F to N. 4? inches for each part, or it is perhaps easier to use 

F to H is front length, 41 inches. the following method: 

Squire back from H to I and out from li to J. Half of waist measure is 12 inches. 

F" to K is 'a length (20^ on J.^). A to i is 2 inches. 

Square out from K to L. i to 2 is yi inch, and 2 to 3 is yi inch. 

K to L is '4 of hip measure fao'^ on halves). Draw a line from 2 to Z and hollow out yi inch each 
H to J is yi of hip measure (20 '^ inches). way from 16. 

Sweep from L to N by K. and from J to Q by H. U to 5 is 5 inches, and 3 to 4 is 5 inches. 

Lay stick on sweep lines Q and N and draw line. 5 to 6 is yj, the distance from 5 to 4. 

O is halfway between F' and N. Draw a line from 6 to V, and hollow side and back 
Lay long arm of square on line L N and slide up till gore y^ incli each way from 15. 

short arm strikes point O, and square out from O Shape as represented and add seams when cutting 

to point P. the cloth. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUITINC EAI)Ii;S' CARMI'-NTS. 



PLATE 36. 




72 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 37. 



SIX GORED SKIRT. 



The accompanying skirt is cut in six gores. The 
back gore, or rather the back plait, is laid so it forms a 
box plait in middle of back, and folding the side gores 
under will make the back finish with two reverse box 
plaits, as shown by illustration accompanying diagram. 

The draft is produced from the following measures: 

Front length. 



Side length, 
Hack length. 



41 

42 



Waist, 
Hip, 



24 
40 



Tt) DRAFT. 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is front length, 41 inches. 

A to C is 5 '3 inches (Js of length). 

Square out from C. 

C to E is ^'2 inch more than 5{> hip (2 i on halves). 

(' to D is yi inch more than yi hip (21 on halves). 

Draw a line from D through L. ' 

K to F is ^'<5 inch more than J^ hip ( 2 1 on halves). 

A to G is half of hip measure (20 inches). 

Draw a line from G through F to J. 

F to K is 51,8 inches. Square back from K to L. 

Square out both ways from G. 

G to H is 14 inch. Sweep from A to M by H for run 

of waist line. 
G to I is '/^ inch. Sweep from B through R, Q, J, X 

to Z, using point I as pivot. 
C to is ' ; the distance from C to E. Draw a line 

from (} through O, which line will locate width of 

front gore. 
F to N is 2 inches. Draw a line from J through N to 

V. This line will be at the side plait. 



P is halfway between O and N. 

G to 27 is }{ hip (20 on }^). Draw a line from 27 

through P to Q. 
Points S and T are up from bottom yi of entire length 

of skirt. J'4 inch is hollowed out on each side of 

S and T. 
In some instances the back gores are hollowed out at 

point U, to give the skirt a more bell effect at 

bottom. 
The waist measure, 24 inches, is divided into six parts, 

making each part 4 inches. 
A to 2 is 2 's inches. 
I to 3 is y^ inch. 

3 to 4 is 4^8 inches. 

4 to 6 is ^ inch. 

6 to 7 is 4 ' 8 inches. 

The extra '3 inch added to each gore is for fullness to 
be held in between the seams. 

7 to 10 is 2 inches, and J to 9 is 5 inches for plait, 

which part is folded back so that 9 la)s on 12 — 25 

on 26. The fold is on line J U N 7. The full 

width of the back plait extends from 12 to 20 and 

II to 21. 
Line Y Z is in the center of plait. 
V to 8 is 2 inches, <S to W is 2 inches, and W to Y is 2 

inches. 
J to 9 is 5 inches, 9 to X is 5 inches, and X to Z is 5 

inches. 
W folds over to V and X over to J. 14 folds over to 17, 

and 16 over to 19. 
The distance from J to 12 and V to 11 is the part that 

forms the underpleat of the back. 
The width of the back gore at top is 16 and at bottom 

40 inches, divided int(5 8 parts for the plaits. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PLATE 37. 



73 




74 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 38. 



THE RAINY-DAY SKIRT. Draw a line from E through I) to F and go out from D 

to ¥ ]/, inch more than ',( of hi]), or use 21 on 

The skirt is drafted threegorcii with V's taken out halves, 

over the hips with one single box-plait in the back, cov- ^^'^'^ ^^'^^^ f-"""^ " t'^^«"g>^ D. 
ered with a strap and buttons as indicated. The open- to I is J4 hip. 

ings are in the sides and are covered with slashes seven '^ '« ^ is yi and S to F will be '5 hip. 

inches long, which have Hve buttons; the openings are *^^ '^ \^^\i'«iy between K and H. 

closed with glove-fasteners. "^^^^' ^ ''"^ from G through F, which gives the actual 

The draft is produceil from proportions in the fol- '^^'"'''^ °^ ^'^"■'• 

lowing manner. The measures are: '^^^^^ ^ "''« ^--^"^ J '^^^"gh T and a line from G to S. 

A to I is I'i waist. 

Front length from waist to lloor, 40 inches. \^ to 4 is 5<3 waist. 

Waist, 24. Hip, 40. V to 2 is '« inch and 2 to 3 is >S waist. 

.Apply length of skirt through A to C, which should be 
2 inches more than }i of the entire length shorter 
Draw a line as from A to C and extend it up to H. than the ordinary length, in this case 7 inches less 

A to H is 1-2 the length of skirt, 20 inches. than 40, making the length of the skirt 2,:^ inches. 

H to J is f2 hip. Sweej) from C to N, using point G as a pivot. 

Siveep by J from A through V, K, U to 1. for top of L to W is 2 inches for plait. 

waist. Draw a line from R, which is halfway between L and 
A to B is 5 inches (j4 of full length of skirt). G to O, and sweep from N to O by R. 

Square out from B to D. A waistband )/, inch wide (usually a heavy silk ribbon) 
B to D is >2 inch more than '4' of hip measure (use 21 will finish the top, and the bottom is faced with 

on halves). the same goods to about 4 to 5 inches high and 

B to E is the same (21 on halves). furnished with several rows of stitching. 



TO DRAKI". 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



75 



PLATE 38. 



// 



ej. 







76 



NEW SUPERLATIVP: system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 39. 



FANCY SKIRT. 



Front length, 


41 


Waist, 


Side length, 


41 }i 


Hip, 


Back length. 


42 





24 
42 



The skirt is drafted with a separate yoke in the back 
and closes with 7 buttons on each side on the back 
plaits. In order to draft this it is necessary to first 
produce the top part or yoke, which is done in the 
following manner: 

TO DRAFT THE YOKE. 

First, form a sipiare as at Aa. 

Aa to I is 8 inches, Ji of waist measure. 

Aa to Ab is I's waist. Sweep from 1 to 2 by An. 

Then go down from i to 3, s'/s inches, which is ^3 of 

skirt length, and sweep from 3 to 4. 
2 to 5 and 4 to 6 is i\ waist. 

8 is halfway between i and 5. 

9 is halfway between 3 and 6, and 10 is halfway between 

3 and 9. 
6 to 7 is I '4 inches. 
Cut through from 7 to 8 and 10, and from 8 to 9, and 

lay pieces aside tilt skirt is drafted. 

TO DRAKI' THE SKIRT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 5 ';i inches (/s of length). 

.\ to C is 41 inches, front length. 

Square out from B and C. 

B to D is Jj of hip (21 on halves). Sweep up to H. 

C to E is I2 of hip measure, 21 inches. 

Sweep up to I, and draw a line from 1 through H, and 
locate point F by laying long arm of square along 
side line 1 H and slide square up till short arm 
touches point G, which is halfway between F and A. 

Then square out from F to M, and go down from F to 
I the front length, 41 inches, and si|uare out each 
way from I 

F to H is the same as.V to B, and square out from H to K. 

H to K is 'j hip on division. S^veep up to Q. 

I to J is half of hip measure, 21 inches. 

Sweep up from J to N, and draw a line from N through 
O to L. 



Lay long arm alongside line N Q and slide it up till 

short arm strikes on point M, which is halfway 

between F and L. 
Apply front length, 41 inches, from L to U, and square 

out each way, and go out from N to O, 21 inches, 

and sweep up as to line P, then draw a line from 

P to L, and sweep from U to P by L. 
20 is halfway between N and P. 
L to (J is the same as A to B. 

Draw a line from 20 through O and locate point X. 
As the sides and back arc longer than the front, add to 

side as from F to 23, }4 inch, and from 26 to 25, 

J-4 inch, according to measure. 
Q to R is },'2 hip on division. 

Sweep up from R to S, and sciuare out from L to T. 
Make same distance from P to U as it is from L to T, 

and draw a line from U through S to T. 
T to Y is I inch, which is the extra back length. 
Draw a line from X to Y. 
Take front piece of yoke and lay it on point i on H 

and point 3 on B, and mark off top of front gore. 
15 is halfway between C and I and 15 to 16 is i "^ inches 
Draw a line from yoke to 16. 
11 is y'i of skirt length up from 16. 
I to 19 is '6 of skirt length, and i to 17 is ts of skirt 

length, and 17 to 12 is ,\ of skirt length. 
Shape front gore from i 1 through 13-19 to 12 and side 

gore from 11 through 14 to L 
When these are sewed together it will produce a bell 
bottom. The backpart of yoke is stitched on as per 
illustrations. Lay the two side pieces of yoke on to 
top of skirt and shape side seam and top. 
N to Z is 3J4 inches. 
Z to 27 is one-fifth of length. 
27 to 28 is J4 and 27 to 29 is i inch. 

Points 21, 22, 23 and 24 have been located by the 
yoke; all these points meet on the side of hip at waist. 
For convenience in cutting the cloth a seam may be 
cut through as from L to W. U to V is 4 inches. 

The opening is in center of back and extends down 
about S inches, and is closed with glove fasteners under- 
neath. The two rows of buttons on the outside are only 
as ornaments. 



NKW SUPERLA'PIVK SYSTEM Ol" CUTTING LADIES' GARMI'.NTS. 



77 



PLATE 39. 




NKW SUPERIATIVE SYSTEM OF CUT TING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 40. 



FIVE GORED SKIRT WITH FLOUNCE. Make a siveep as from T up to N, using point L as 

j)ivot. I-ay the yard stick on sweep P R Q and T 

The draft is produced from the following measure- N, then place the siniare along yard s'ick and slide' 
luents: it up or down until the arm crosses line at point S, 
Front length. - 40 Waist, - - 24 which is halfway between points I. and T; then re- 
Side length, - i }'2 Hip, - - 40 verse the square and slide it up until the arm will 
Back lenotli, 40 '2 ' '^y on point J; then square across from J to 

locate point Q. 



TO DRAKr. 



R is halfway between Q and P. 



Square out and. down from .\. Apply front length of skirt, 40 inches, from R to T and 

A to B is 5 inches, to C full length, 40 inches. shape the bottom of skirt as illustrated in diagram. 

Square out lines B and C. A to 2 is yi waist on division. 

B to U is '/2 of hip measure, 20 inches. H to 3 and M to 5 is j,s waist plus 3,4 inch, making the 

E is halfway between B and D. width from 3 to 5, }^ waist plus I'/i inches. If 

C to F is ^2 hip, 20 inches. the goods cannot be pressed in enough to produce 

Draw a line from F through E to M. the e.xtra pocket or fullness over the hip a small V 

9 is halfway between A and M. may be taken out at M, but with good tailoring 

Lay long arm of square online E M and slide up the this is not necessary. 

square until the short arm crosses square line at 9. The front gore from C to Y is 14 inches. 

Square back from 9 anti locate the height at point M, Point Z is halfway between T" and Y. 

then tip the square over and draw line from M to O. As the side and back lengths are '/j inch more than 

Measure down from M to H length, 40 inches, and the front length, points 2, 3, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are yi 

square out to point K, which is one-half of hip inch above construction lines. 

from F, 20 inches. 
Sweep up from D to I and sipiare out from E to I, then 

draw a line from K through I to J. In cutting skirts with a flounce it is well to leave out 

is halfway between M and J. the seam from 9 to 10, and only take out a V as at 9. 
Lay long arm of square on line I J and slide the square The flounce reaches up to the middle of the skirt as at 

up until the short arm touches point O, and square point U V. 

across from O for height of point J, then tip the U to X is t inch. C to Y dotted line is 2 inches. 

square over and square out from J to P. 10 to \V is the same as 10 to V and W is 2 inches above 

1 to P is 8 inches or as much more as is wanted for half the distance from V to R. W to Z dotted line 

fullness. is the same as V to T and 12 to 13 is the same as 

Sweep up from P to Q by O, apply front length, 40 1 1 to L. 

inches, from J to L, and square out from L to S. The flounce should if possible have no seam only as at 

L to T is yi of hip plus 4 inches, or as much more as 12 13 and in the back. 

is wanted for width around the bottom. Shape as represented. 



THE FLOUNCE. 



NEW SUPF.RI.ATIVK SVSrKM OF CUrilNG LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PLATE 40. 



79 




^ Y 



■So 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 41. 



SEVEN GORED SKIRT. 



Seven-gored skirt from the following measurements: 



Front length, 40 



Side length, 4oJ'2 



Hip, 



38 



Back length, 40J2 
Waist, 25 

Width around bottom, 4 yards 18 inches. 

10 DR.M'T. 

Square out and down from .A. 

A to B is 5 inches, to (" is 40 inches. 

Square out lines B and ('. 

B to D is }(: of hip measure. 

E is halfway between B and D. C to F is j/i hip measure. 

Draw a line from F through E to G. 

9 is halfway between A and G. 

Lay long arm of square on line E G and slide up until 

short arm crosses 9, and locale point G: measure 

down from G to H, front length 40 inches. 
Square out from H to K. 
H to K is 14 hip measure. 
Sweep up from D to I, and siiuare out from E to I, then 

draw a line from K through I to I. 
6 is halfway between G and J. 
Lay long arm of square parallel with line L I, and slide 

scpiare up until short arm crosses 6, and locate 

point J, then apply front length, 40 inches, from J 

to L, and square out from L to S. 
(Points A, B. C, and J, I, L, hold good in all skirts, 

no matter what width is desired at bottom or how 

much extra goods is wanted for pleats or gathers 

in the back.) 
Measure distance from C to L and add from L to M to 

make up width at bottom, and make a sweep at M, 

using i)oint L as pivot. 



Square out from J to P. 

J to P is 6 inches and J to O is 12 inches or whatever 
is wanted for pleats. 

Make a sweep at P and O, using point J as pivot. 

N is halfway between L and M, and S is halfway be- 
tween L and N. 

Lay yardstick on sweeps P, Q and M, then place square 
alongside yardstick so that long arm will strike 
point S, and square out for point N wherever it 
crosses sweeps, then reverse the square so that long 
arm will lay on line N Q, and slide up till arm of 
square strikes J, and stjuare from J to Q, turn 
square over and square out to where line crosses 
sweep at O. 

R is halfway between P and Q- 

.■\pply front length, 40 inches, from R to T and from 
O to M. 

Make front gore from C to Y, 12 inches. 

Y to Z is 26 inches. 

/ to T is 26 inches. 

Draw a line from Y to 9. 

.•\ to 2 is J 3 waist on division. 

G to 4 and G to 5 is ^ inch, taken out in a V. 

Split skirt through from 6 to Z. 

7 is halfway between J and Q. 

Split through from 7 to T. 

The opening is made in the left side at 6. 

The distance from 8 to 6 is gathered or pleated in, so 
as to make the correct size of waist. 

The sides and back being j4 inch longer than front the 
sides and back are raised that amoiint above con- 
struction lines. 

Add seams when cutting the goods. 



NEW SUPER!,. VnVF-; SYSTEM OK CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PLATE 41. 




82 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 42. 



DIVIDED BICYCLE SKIRT. 



'I'he divided skirt is drafted on tlie same principle as 
a pair of trousers, only giving extra size to the legs and 
allowing tlie extra amount of goods for plaits and full- 
ness. The accompanying draft illustrates a divided 
bicycle skirt with a reverse box plait in front and back. 
The draft is produced from the following measure- 
ments: ]'\ill length of skirt from waist line to floor, 
40 inches. 

Waist, - 24 I Seat, 



24 

10 DRAFT. 



42 



Square out and down from .*\. 

A to B is '.( of length plus t inch (ii inches). 

A to C is full length, 33 inches, which is 2 inches more 

than ^8 of 40, the entire length. 
S(|uare out from B and C. 
B to D is >-2 seat. 

Square out from D to E and down to F. 
E to J is ?i' and to I is ij,4 inches. 
D to K is r }2 and to G is 3 inches. 
Sweep from D to G and F to H by J and draw a line 

from I through G to 11. 
E D K folds over to I G H, making a plait. 
Square out from G to M. 
G to M and G to 13 is '■, seat. 
H to 14 is yi and 14 to N is yi seat. 
E to T is 2 inches ('o waist). 
I to 2 is 3/j inch, 2 to 3 is J.-e- 
3 to 4 is ;^' inch and 4 to 5 is ji waist. 
A to 1 1 is 8 inches (i of full length.) 



Shape forepart as per diagram. 

A to 6 is I inch and B to V is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 6 through Y to X, which will be the 

outside fold of skirt. 
Shape side over hip from 5 to 11. 
Extend line J up to O. 
J to O is 1 3^ inches. 
Draw a line from O through M to Q. 
M to /, and M to P is ji seat. 
Q to 15 is }(, and 15 to W is j4 seat. 
O to T is I inch and T to R is i inch. 
K is halfway between D and G. 
Draw a line from R through K to S. 
R K S will fold over to O M Q. 
Square out from M to Z. 
Point R is Jj inch below point T. 
R to 10 is ](, waist, 6 to 7 is '6 waist; take out from 

7 to 8 and 9 to 10 so as to make distance from 

8 to 9 }■■(, waist. 

The distance from O to Q should be i '^ inches more 
than A to C. 

The top of waist is finished with a js inch wide band. 
The sides are finished with slashes containing three 
or more buttons. On the right side is a pocket. 
The left side is left open and closes at top with 
either a button or hooks. Both the pocket and 
the opens are held closed with glove-fasteners. The 
bottom is usually turned up and stretched 4 to 5 
rows ?i to ^2 inch apart. 

The skirt may be cut without seams if the material is 
wide enough, or seams may be placed as from A 
through fi,BtoC, through lines J, K,L, andT,U,V. 



NKW SUl'KRLATIVK SYSTK.M OK CUTTINC. LADIES' CARMI'.NIS. 



«3 







r^j 




a 



X' 



84 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 43. 



RIDING BREECHES. 



To enable the cutter to produce a close fitting pair 
of riding breeches it liecomes necessary for him or her 
to have a close measure, and no lady will object to being 
measured in the proper manner, the same as we would 
measure a man for the same kind of garment. How- 
ever, the following rule may be used to advantage: If 
the outside length is 42 the inside will be 31 and the 
rise It. Take the outside length, divide -it by 4, and 
take 1-4 plus ^ inch for the rise. The remainder, }/^ 
less }i inch, will be the leg. 

The knee is two inches above one-half of inside 
length ; the ankle is two and one-half inches above full 
length of leg. The accompanying diagram is produced 
from the following measures : 



Outside, 


42 


Inseam to knee. 


^sli 


To ankle. 


28y2 



IS 
■5 



Waist, 24 Knee, 

Seat, 42 Galf, 

Thigh, 25'^ Ankle, 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw line A B to K. 
Square out from A to T. 
A to H is rise, 1 1 inches. 
B C is length to knee, i^^A inches. 

C to D is two inches e.xtra length added for bend of 
knee and ease; to L is inside length plus 2 inches. 
Scjuare across B, D and E. 
B to F is one-half seat (on division). 
Square up from V to T. 
F to G is ys seat. 
F to I is i^ seat. 
Draw a line from I to G. 
S is halfway between I and G. 
S to Y is ?4 inch. 
Draw a line from I to J and K. 
J to K is I inch. 
H is halfway between B and G. 
E to N is the same as B to H. 



Draw center line from N through M, H to L and U. 
Apply one fourth knee measure from M to Rand M 

to Q. 
Apply one-fourth of ankle measure from N to O and N 

to P, and apply the calf measure in like manner 

at 16. 
T to I is .- ;i inch. 

1 to 2 is 2}'2 inches. 

2 to 3 is j4 inch. 

3 to 4 is 2^'^ inches. 

4 to 5 is yi inch. 

3 to 6 is 2^2 inches. 

Siiape forepart as reiiresented. 

THE ri.\CKl>ART. 

Extend lines at waist, seat, knee and bottom. 

G to X is i's seat. 

L to U is 3 inches. 

Draw a line from I to U. 

K to W is 2j{ inches. 

R to II is }^ inch. 

Q to I 2 is ^ inch. ' 

16 is 4 inches below knee. 

N to 17 and N to 18 is i inch. 

I 7 to 13 and 18 to 14 is one-fourth ankle measure and 

^2 inch. Apply the measure over the calf at 16. 
Add a button stand as indicated by broken line at 15. 
Take out a half inch V at M as indicated by dotted 

lines. 
U to 7 is 2^2 inches. 

7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

8 to 9 is 2 ?/( inches. 

9 to 10 is I ^4 inches. 

10 to V is 2^4 inches. 
Shape as represented. 

The top is finished with a regular waist band. The 
opening may be made in the sides, or quite often 
they are made with a regular fly front. Seams are 
included in this draft. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



«S 



PLATE 43. 



P 7^ '8 







H p /a frTo 13 



86 



NEW SUPERLATI\E SYSTEM OE CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 44. 




PLATE 44. 



THE LEGGINS 

Draw line A B. 

.A to B is the length, i6 inches. 

A to D is 4 inches. 

B to C is 4 inches. 

S<iuare lines A, B, C and D. 

Line H is halfway between L and G. 

C to K is ^2 inch. 

A to E is Yz of leg measure. 

1) to F is % of calf measure. 

K to G is yi of ankle measure. 

K to L is 'j of instep measure. 

L to M is Yz of width at bottom. 

Shape as shown in diagram. 

The buttons are placed in the center of the leggin and 
edge. N O is .-^ inch from outer end of button- 
holes. A one-inch button stand is added from the 
center on the under part. 
Note. — Add seams when cutting the cloth as no seam 

is allowed in pattern. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 45. 



BICYCLE CAP. 



To more fully illustrate the method of cutting the 
cap all six pieces are shown, but when once understood 
only one piece is required in drafting. The first point 
to consider is the size of the cap; say it is size 7 (21 
inches), 7 inches being the diameter of cap wanted we 
take half of seven 3^ inches, and make a circle using 
point B as a pivot then divide the circle by ],i making 
each piece t,^ inches the total of which is 21 inches or 
size 7. Now it is not necessary to go to all this trouble 
in drafting a cap as tlie same principle may be applied 
in cutting the pattern out of one piece. 
Draw line A B C. 
Square across E A E. 

A to J is zYz inches or any height re(|uired. 
J to B is % of the size or ]^ of circumference of cap. 
Sweep from J each way to D D. 



A to E is Yz each way making each piece from E to 
E '6, or if only 4 pieces }\ and if a 5-piece cap is 
wanted J and so on. 

Sijuare up lines from E to i and E to 6. 

Square across from i to 6 and draw lines from i to B 
and 6 to B thus forming a triangle i 6 B. This 
triangle will only come in a six piece cap. 

In shaping the crown add Ya of sf' inch round at 7 so 
as to make the crown stand out, and if a snug cap 
is wanted reduce or round off a trifle at D D. 

THE vrsoR. 

Visor from F to F and F is halfway of the cap. 
Width of the visor from F to G or H is all the way from 

\Yz to 7 inches, according to style and fancy. 
Draw line B A G. 
B to F is ji of circumference of head or the size of 

cap 7. Sweep F F ¥ by B. 



NKW SUPERLAriVK SYSTKM OF CUTriNC, I.ADIKS' GARMKNTS. 



8/ 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 46. 




PLATE 45. 



2h-"y 




THE GOLF CAP 

The.si/.c of a cap is known by its liiameter. Si/.e 6 
is iS inches, and size 7 is ji inches in circumference. 
'I'he ciianieter of a circle is a small fraction more than 
one-third, bnt for all practical purposes in caj) cutting 
one-third may be used, and for an illustration I will 
use size 7 to draft l)y; three times seven is twenty one, so 
the circumference of a size 7 is 21 inches. 

•JO^ DUAFf. 

3 to 6 is J;^. the cap, lo'j inclies. 

Divide distance from 3 to 6 into four parts and sub- 
divide these parts into two and draw lines 11, U, 
X, T, F, S, (;, R and A. 

1! to I) is 7 inches or ' ; the size. 

.•\ to C is the same as B to D. 

.As the crown of the cap leans furward, advance point. 
. from I to 2 one inch. 

i\I to (I is one inch; L to 1* is one inch; K to C) is one 
inch; J to N is one inch. 

Raise top lines one inch from C to !■'. 

l-ine 2 .|. \' is halfway between lines F. and I). 

Draw lines from Y to Q, X to F, \V to () and V to N. 

Sliape as represented. 

THE VISOK. 

Tlie visor is drafted on a ' ; of (the size) circle. 
iCxiend line from S to F 5. 
Sweep from 4 to 5 by 3 for center of circle. 
Sweep from 3 to 4 and 6 by 5. 
.Sweep from 3 to 7 and 6 by using 8 as pivot. 
If a broader visor is wanted move pivot up above <S 
wliatever width is desired from .) to 7. 



PLATE 46. 



88 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 47. 



RIDING SKIRT. 



Diagram on opposite page. The measures used in 
drafting are as follows: 

Full length of skirt, 40 inches, j Waist, 24. 

From waist to right knee, in a sitting position, iS'j 
inches. The width of skirt is regulated by the length, 
the width of the skirt being twice its length. 

TO I)R.\KT THE FOREPART. 

Square lines A X and A C. 

A to B is 4 inches. 

B to C is yi waist. 

Sweep from C through 5 to I) using H as pivot. 

A to E is J^ waist. 

G is halfway between A and E. 

E to F is ys length of skirt. 

E to X is full length of skirt, 40 inches. 

F to L is 40 inches or same as length of skirt. 

L to M is 'is the distance from F to L. 

Square up from M to O. 

Draw a line from O to C, and add above line ij^ inches 
as shown in diagram. 

Lay corner of square at O, letting arm rest at point L 
and draw a line down from O through P L to Q. 

Apply measure i8>{, inches from 5 to 6, and take out 
a slash of 1 inch in the center running out to 
nothing at 5 and 6. The lower part should be cut 
^ of an inch shorter than the top and stretched 
out so as to make this part hollow and fit in close 
in the lap when in a sitting position. 

Point 10 is halfway between point 6 and line M O. The 
dart at O is I '4 inches and the dart at P is i inch. 



Shape left side from H down to F as shown in dia- 
gram. 

THE BACKP.\RT. 

F to R is 20 inches being the same as the length of the 
skirt. 

T is halfway between F and R. 

Square up from T to U and draw a line from U to E 
for top of back. 

G to J is 4 inches. 

Shape left side from J through I to F. 

Apply waist measure from C to 5 and D. Place this 
amount at I and measure up to U, and whatever 
amount is over the full waist measure is to be taken 
out in two darts as from i to 2 and 3 to 4. 

R to S is 2 inches. 

Draw line from U through S and 7. 

Draw a parallel line from T through 12 to 11. 

Lay corner of square at S, letting long arm rest at U 
and square down to 12. 

R to V is 5 inches. 

Square down from V to W. 

I 2 to R is 1% inches longer than 12 to S. 

II to 7 is I ^ inches longer than 11 to 8. 

A V of i}{ inches is taken out between 7 and 8. 

Measure backpart from U to S, R to 7 and 8 to W and 
make forepart the same length from C to O, P to Q. 

There is a 5 to 6-inch turn-up or hem at the bottom of 
skirt and the top of the skirt must be lined. 

The opening is made on the left side as illustrated on 
the pattern, also a pocket is either put lengthwise 
in the side seam or crosswise as indicated on dia- 
gram. An elastic strap is sewed on the forepart 
for the foot to hold the skirt down. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 




go NEW SUPP:RLATIVE system of cutting LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 48. 



RIDING SKIRT. E to N is '4 of length and N to F is i >4 inches. 

F to G is )( of hip (y? on division). 

This riding skirt i., more form fitting than the pre- h to I is ^^ of hip ( ■/, on division). 

ceding one. It is drafted from the proportions of the j^ ^^ ^j j^ ,. ^f ^j^, ^„ division, 

size of waist, hip and length of skirt as follows: A to i is one inch 

Waist 24 I Hip, 42 | Length of skirt, 40 Take out a V as between 2 and 5 so as to make distance 

from I to 2, 3 to M, two inches less than half of 
THE FOREPART (SEE DIAGRAM A). ^vaist measurc. 

Draw a straight line A B C. Draw a line from M to N. 

Scjuare across from A to L. Sweep from M to K by N. 

A to H is ^s of length and to D full length of skirt, and N to 4 is ' .* hip on division. 

if extra length is desired add from one to two 4 to 5 is 2 inches. 

inches extra. K to 7 is 1 inch and K to 6 is i inch. 

D to C is '/, of length. Draw straight line from 7 to N. 

Square lines 15, C and D. 8 to 9 is one inch. 
1! to K is '4 of hip ( '/j on ilivision ). (See back jjart Diagram B on page 92.) 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



9' 



PLATE 48. 





DiAq- A 



Ai)B 






«} 

O 



^t)G 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 49. 



RIDING SKIRT. V to U is 1)4 inches. 

A to D is length, the same as A to D on the forepart. 

THE i;.A(_Ki'.\RT (i)i,\(;R.AM i;). W to X is 3 inches. 

Square line A B D. X to Y is 's of hip (^4 on division). 

Square acioss at A. Reduce waist one inch at A and one inch in a V 
A to B is J6 length. A to C is j 3 length. between .\ and R. 

Square lines B and C. M to i is ij{ inches and i to 3 is 6 inches. 

C to E is j{ of hip ( }< on division). 3 to 5 is 4 inches. 

E to F is >t of length and F to G is Js of length. N to 2 is i J-^' inches. 

G to H is }{ of hip (>{. on division). 2 to 4 is 3 inches. 

K is halfway between F and L. 4 to 6 is 10 inches. 
Draw a line from K through P and R forming point Q L to 7 is one inch. 

and sweep from A to R by Q. Shape as represented and add seam when cutting the 
Sweep from R to S by K.. cloth. 

S to T is 2 inches. The opening is in the left side as from A to B, which 
G to I is 1}^ inches. is finished with a fly. 

Sweep from T to U by I. The skirt must be lined over the knee as indicated 
O to V is I '4 inches. by dotted lines. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSIEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



93 



PLATE 49. 




9 + 



NEW SUPER!, \TIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 50. 



HALF CIRCLE CAPE. 

The half circle cape is cut in the following manner. 
(See Diagram A). 
Square up and down from A. 
A to B is 4 inches and A to U is ''^ breast. 
B to C is 14 inch. 

C to V is length of waist and to X full length. 
Square lines B, A, U and V. 

A to D is }s, D to E is js and E to F is }i breast. 
F to G is- ''6 breast. 
Square out from G through K J to 3. 
G to K is '6, K to J is }s, J to I is }i and I to II is js 

breast. 
Square up and down from H. 
A to L and H to L is the same as .\ to G. 
M is yi inch below C. Sweep from M to N by L. 
Draw a line from I, to G. 
B to O is J8 breast. 
Sweep from O to Q by G, locating points T R S, and 

where sweeps cross at Q is the front shoulder point. 
Draw a line from O to G and from Q to G. 



Sweep from F to K by G, locating points 1 and 2. 

Make distance from T to S the sime as distance from i 
to 2. 

H to 3 is one inch, draw a line from L through 3 for front. 

V to 7 is ^ inch and W to 8 the same. 

Ap])ly length desired from C to X and sweep from X to 
Y using point R as pivot. Add enough at points 
X and Y' to make it an even run at bottom. 

THE KUI.I. CIRCLE CAPE 

Is cut in the following manner. (See Diagram B). 
Square up and down from A. This line represents the 

center of cape. 
Square across at A. 

A to B is ^ neck, A to C is ('2 neck and A to D is ^i 
neck. Apply length from C to E F G or I for 
whatever length is desired, and make a-sweep using 
point B for pivot and lengthen front and back so 
as to get an even run. 
C is the back, B the side and D the front of neck. 

The collar on either of these capes may be a stand- 
ing, turn down or a high standing collar. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' CAKMKNTS. 



95 



PLATE 50. 




96 NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



TllK PRUSSIAN I'OI.LAR. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 51. 



COMBINATION CAPE METHOD. 8, 9, TO, we have a ^ circle with a V taken out in 

" the shoulder. By cutting pattern us illustrated by the 

On opposite page will be found a combination 111 .• ., 1 • 1 . • j 

' ^ ' ° shaded [jortions the regular cape is obtained. 

method of drafting capes. From this method may be 

drafted the ?/( circle military cape or the regular 

shoulder cape with a seam in the center of shoulder. The collar is drafted by drawing a line from 1 to 2. 

The accompanying draft is for a normal figure. Square down from i to 3. 

1 to 3 is 2 inches. 
Shape from 2 to 3 as illustrated in diagram. 

2 to 5 is r 14 inches for stand. 

Make a point at A. . /- • • 1 

' 5 to 6 is 3 inches. 

A to H is '/,' breast. . • • u 

'■* I to 4 is 2 inches. 
A to C is ]4 breast. 



TO UKAKT. 

Draw a straight line from A down to R 



Lay corner of sijuare at 3, letting arm rest on point 4 
and square down from 3 to 7 for front of collar. 



VAMAIIONS. 



Square back from C to D. 

C to D is ' ! breast. 

Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm rest 

at point D and draw back renter line from A to E. Tor a lady with a long neck add from C to M what- 

A to F is J8 breast. ever extra height in neck is desired, square back from 

A to G is 14^ breast. N to | and lay corner of sijuare at point A, draw back 

F to S is '6 breast. center line from A to K as indicated by dotted line. 
Stjuare up from S to T. For a short neck figure go uji from C to L whatever 

Square lines from G through P to O, and from li through extra amount neck is shorter than proportion. Square 

P to N. out to point II and draw back center line from 

Draw line from .\ through point P to "leopard spot.'' .'\ to I as indicated by dot and dash line. For stooped 

Apply length desired from F to E. or erect figures slide point A up or down on back center 

Sweep from E through N* () to K using point T as line according to whatever stoop or erect is wanted. 

pivot. F"or a }4 inch stooped form go down from A to 2, 
C to U is 2 '4 inches. half an inch, and for a '/^ inch erect formgoback from 
Square down from U to V. .\ to 3, half inch, then change the neck gorge to con- 
Draw line from A through W to U. form to the new center point, /. e., for a stooped figure 
Add from \V to X and U to Y, 2 inches, or whatever 2 to F should be yi and 2 to B '4 breast, and in an 

is desired for lap in front. erect figure 3 to F is ya and 3 to B '4' breast. The cape 

The full size of tlie draft will make a three fourths is usually made fly-front and has a Prussian collar, 
circle cape, and by splitting it through on the shoulder Note. — This method of cutting capes will hold good 

from T to P and plaiting N over to O as per dotted line for both ladies and gentlemen. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



97 



PLATE 51 



y\ 




NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 52. 



OPERA CLOAKS. 



The accompanying drafts illustrate two different 
styles of opera cloaks. The outside draft is that of a 
cloak cut in one piece -with a seam in the middle of the 
back and a seam in the shoulder. It has a regular 
standing collar. The inside draft gives an illustration 
of how a Raglan Opera Cloak may be produced from 
the regular pattern. 

The accompanying drafts are produced by propor- 
tions from the following measures: 

Length to natural waist, i6 Neck, 14 Breast, 36 

Full length, - - 42 Collar, 17 Bust, 3>S 

Full length of figure 5 feet 4 inches. 

■1(1 DR'^FT. 

Commence by drawing a straight line as from .\ to K. 

\ to B is 2 inches. 

B to C is y'} bust. 

,'\ to D is waist length and to E full length. 

Si|uare lines B, C, D. 

A to F is '/() breast. 

Square out from F. 

!•' to G is % and G to H is ,'., breast. 

F to K is ; J bust. 

K to M is '/I and M to N is A breast. 

C to R is 'j bust. 

R to S is ^ bust. 

Square up from S to Q. 

R to T is '3 bust. 

Draw a line through T to 16 from FI. 

Scpiare out from T to X by line H T. 

T to U is }i bust, U to V is ; s bust and U to \V is j-i bust. 

\V to X is two inches. 

Square down from X to Y and draw a line from N 

through X to Z and shape front from M through .\ 

to Z. 
Draw a line from .V to K and K to ]. 
A to O is 'a breast. 
Draw a line from O to J. 
O to P is '/j inch. 
S(|uare up from V to Q. 

S to I and V to 2 is 14 inch more than yi bust. 
E to 15 is }'o bust. 

X to Y is the same distance as D to E. 
T to 16 is the same as X to Y. 
Point 30 represents the sleeve head after the shoulders 

are sewed toe;ether. 



The sleeve head must be gathered in by pulling in the 
thread from i to 2 and the fullness pressed in so 
that the sleeve head will go in even to the shoulder. 

THE NECK. 

Measure the neck gorge from .\ to P and K to M, which 
should be two inches more than the actual size of 
the collar worn, in this case 16 inches. 

IHE COLLAR. 

Form a square from 5 to 6 and 5 to 7. 

5 to 6 is )i( and 5 to 7 is yi neck. 

Square out from 6 to 10 and 7 to 13. 

Shape from 6 through 8 and 9 to 7. 

Make width of collar from 6 to 10 and 7 to 13 from 4 

to 5 inches. 
Split through from 8 to 1 1 and 9 to 12 and add about 

3 8 inch spring to each piece as at 8 and 9. 
If the collar be of soft pliable goods the inside edge 

may be stretched at points 8 and 9 and in this case 

the collar is cut in one piece, otherwise it is in six 

pieces. 
The inside diagrams (with top portions shaded) repre- 
sent the Raglan Opera Cloak, which is produced 

in the following manner: 
Cut off the back as per broken line from i to 4 and then 

cut off the front shoulder as per broken line from 

points 2 to 3. The shaded parts represent these 

changes. 
Piece 20 is what has been cut off from the front 

shoulder and i)iece 21 what has been cut from the 

back shoulder. These pieces are placed together 

and set on top of the sleeve-head, overlapping J^ 

inch as at 19. 
The side piece of the collar, 22, is set on the top of the 

shoulder pieces and shaped off as from 17 to 21 

and from 18 to 20 up to the neck. 
There will be fullness on the side piece the same as on 

a regular Raglan sleeve from 18 to 20 and 17 to 

29 and 18 to 28. 
B is the back, C the front, and D the side piece. 
The collar should be attached to the back and side 

pieces, but on the front gorge it is better to have 

a seam as from 26 to 27. 
The "Raglan Opera Cloak," if cut and made up 

properly will produce a novel up todate and stylish 

garment. 
Note. — Add seams all over. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' CARMKNIS. 



99 




L.ofC. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 53. 



CAPE WITH YOKE. Divide distance from B to C into 5 e<nial parts and 

draw lines from .A to D, E, F and G, tlien subdivide 

The accompanying diagram illustrates a ca])e vvitli a these parts and draw lines from A to H, I, J, K and L; 

ten-pointed yoke and five-pointed collar. The yoke is all these lines center at center of neck, as at A. Then 

cut in six parts, three for each side, and the collar is cut out the yoke from B to H, to G, to I, to !•', to J, 

attached to the yoke as per illustrations X, V, Z. This to E, to R, to D, to L, to C. 

style of cape makes up beautiful in fur, the yoke of Per- Split lower portion of cape, as from G to R, F to S, 

sian lamb and the lower portion electric seal. When E to T, and D to U, and pull pattern apart ^ inch, as 

made of woolen goods it should be all one kind and the indicated by shaded portions, and shape as illustrated 

seams of yoke should overlap the lower part and by solid lines from B to H, to G, to I, to V, to J, to E, 

double-stitched. Tlie pattern is produced in the fol- to K, to D, to L, to C. Sweep out ./^ inch for puff. 

lowing manner; Split yoke as per line P O I i, and copy off back 

Take a regular three quarter circle pattern, the same piece X, and add back part of collar; 8 to 2 is 5 inches 

as on page 97, and e.xtend the back and front centers and 2 to i is S inches Then cut out side yoke as per 

till they meet as at point A. lines O, I, N, K, and copy off side piece V and add 

P to A is ys, A to O is '5, and W to M is j^ breast. collar; 9 to 4 is 5 inches and 4 to 3 is 9 inches. The 

A to W is one inch. yoke and collar pieces X Y Z are joined together, then 

Measure down from P to B for longest point, and the yoke is sewed on to the lower part of cape which 

from P to H for shortest point of yoke and sweep from has been enlarged at points C, D, E, F", G, and will 

H to L, and B to C, using point W as pivot. produce puffs at points L, K, J, I, M. 



NEW SUl'ERLATIVF, SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PLATE 53. 




NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 54. 



VARIATIONS 



THE CORPULENT FIGURE. 

(Diagram B.) 
A to B is 4 inches (normal height 5 feet 4 inches). 
B to C is }( breast. 

C to F is J^ breast and C to G is % bust. 
H is halfway between breast and bust. 
H to J is '8 bust; square up to K. 
N is halfway between B and 6. 
Draw a line from N to K. 
K to L is '8 breast. 

I is halfway between C and F; square do.vn to E. 
Square down from H to R and ad\ance from R to S 

one inch. 
Shape front center from K through X, G to S, as illus- 
trated by crossed line. The crossed lines repre- 
sent the normal draft. 
To change from the normal to the corpulent I take 
as a standard that the normal waist should be ten 
inches less than the breast measure. The accompany- 
ing draft Diagram B is 34 breast, 36 bust and 24 waist. 
Now if we want to change this to 30 waist we have six 
inches of extra fat, as we are cutting or drafting only 
half of the body we only use 3 inches, half of the extra 
fat, and add from S to U, 2 inches, being - j of the 
extra fat and from E to T we add the remainder i inch 
or one-third of the extra fat. I then suppress between 
D and T enough so as to make it one-fourth of the 
waist, and take out enough in the darts and side to 
make it measure one-fourth waist from T to U. Sweep 
from S to V by G for front length, recede from K to 
W I4 inch for every inch the front has been advanced 
from S to U, then draw a line from W to N and go 
back from W to i J 3 breast. 

P to 2 is the same as L to 1 and X to 3 is the same 
as L to I. 

For smaller waist than normal I suppress in darts 
and side so as to make forepart measure one-fourth 



waist as from T to S (see L^iagram A), and the back 
one-fourth waist from E to T. Never take out more 
than ;2 inch between back and side body at waist, but 
take the extra suppression out between side boiiy and 
underarm piece, and in the side between under-arm 
piece and point T. 

LONG AND SHORT NECK. 

(Diagram A.) 

The depth of scye, the dorsal length, as from .\ to D 
contains two different (juantities. A to B being the 
shortest distance is obtained from the height and is 
called the minor dorsal length, the distance from B to 
D being the longer distance is called the major dorsal 
length, and is obtained from the breast or size of arm. 
If we have a short figure to cut for the minor dorsal 
length will become shorter as illustrated by point i, 
and if a longer figure the minor dorsal length becomes 
longer as indicated by point 2. The minor dorsal 
length is three sixty fourths of entire height. MLN 
is the regular shoulder, i 1 N is the short neck and 2 2 
N is the long necked figure. V to L is the normal 
front length of shoulder. V to i is the short neck and 
V to 2 the long necked figure. These variations are 
obtained by either a shoulder measure or short meas- 
ures, depth of scye and strap length. 

Points 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent the diameter of the 
scye. 7 is halfway between I and 4. N is halfway 
between 6 and 8 plus one-quarter the difference be- 
tween breast and bust measure. 

Y is halfway between 4 and 5 and X halfway be- 
tween 3 and 4; the distance from Y to P O and X must 
be the same as Y 8 N to X. 

The major dorsal length from B to C is '4 breast on 
division and C to D is ji inch. 

It will be noticed that the front shoulder points also 
the center of neck as at K i and 2 remains on the same 
perpendicular line in all cases, also points M i and 2 
on the back. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



'°3 



PLATE 54. 



}< W 




.1 4 7 11 



QTFf j q 







s B 



T 



DIAQ-A- 



- — ®E 



104 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE 55. 



VARIATIONS. 



The easiest way of finding whether our client stands 
normal, erect, or stooped, undoubtedly is by a com- 
parison of the upper shoulder measure and length of 
strap in the following manner: 

In a normal figure the strap will measure one inch 
less than half of the upper shoulder, as follows: 
Strap, II I Upper shoulder, 24 

(See Diagram A.) 
A to C is ' ,i upper shoulder plus }4 inch, and C to H 

is }( breast (on division) plus ^4 inch. 
M is always halfway between B and L. 
D is halfway between half of breast anil half of bust 

measure. 
D to E is 'a bust (this is the only point that I use the 

division of bust for). 
Square up from E to K. 

In a normal figure point K is on the same line with A, 
Draw a line from K to M. K to N is Js breast. 

The solid lines represent the normal pattern, and 
the broken lines the erect, which is produced from the 
following measures: Strap, 11J2: upper shoulder, 24; 
half of strap is 12, one inch less makes it 11, which is 
the normal strap to a 24 upper shoulder. By compar- 
ing the normal strap, 1 1, to our measure, which is 1 1 J/^, 
we find that our client is 3-2 inch erect, so I lower the 
back ^.'i inch as from .\ to i, and raise the front }-j 
inch as from K to i, and draw a line from M to r, 
which is Yz inch above K. Points i, i, i indicate the 
pattern for the erect form on Diagram A. 

The stooping form is illustrated on Diagram 15. The 
solid lines represent the normal figure, the broken lines 
2, 2, 2, are for the stooped figure from the following 
measures: Strap, 10 J^; upper shoulder, 24; half of 
upper shoulder is 12, one inch less is 11. By compar- 
ing this amount with the strap measure, which is yi 
inch less, we find that our client is j-j inch stooped. 
Raise the back yi inch, as from A to 2. Lower front 
same amount as from K to 2. Draw a line from M to 
}i inch below K, as at 2. 

Note. — I find in practice that very few ladies are 
stooped, the most of them being erect, therefore a num- 
ber of diagrams in this work are drafted erect in the 
following manner: 



I go back from D to E y^ bust; then from E to F 
1 8 breast; and draw up line from F to top line, and 
allow front shoulder point to come up to top line as in 
Diagram A. This will make the normal pattern }{ inch 
erect, or in all }4 inch erect, if the back is not lowered, 
but if the back is lowered '^ inch, then we will make 
the pattern one inch erect. 

LARGE AND SMAIJ. P.LADE. 

In a normal pattern the blade from C to I is 'ji of 
breast, and G to H is '/s bust. The normal blade will 
measure yi inch less than half of the lower shoulder 
measure. 

If two-thirds of breast, as from C to I, measures 
say ii'i, and half of the lower shoulder is 12, then we 
have a normal blade, but if half of the lower shoulder 
is only ii^'i 'h^i* ^^^ have a yi inch smaller blade than 
normal, and we recede ^ inch, as from I to i, and J 
to 1. 

Whenever blade is smaller than normal and point I 
is moved back say yi inch, point H must recede }{ 
inch as from H to i, N to i and Q to i. The small 
blade is indicated by broken lines marked i, i, i, anil 
the large blade by dash and dot lines marked 2, and 
whatever front of scye is moved forward or back, the 
shoulder must be changed one- half the amount forward 
or back. 

Diagram D represents an ordinary standing collar. 
A to B is y, the neck. 

B to C is I?/; inches, or to style and fancy. 
A to I is }{ inch and D to 2 is '4' inch. 

Diagram E represents a standing turn-down collar. 
A to B is y neck. 
A to D and B to C is ij^ inches. 
D to F and C to E is 2 inches. 
A to I is one inch and D to 2 is the same. 
F to 3 and 3 to 4 is i inch. 

Diagram ¥ is a straight standing collar, and is some- 
times used in connection with a frill top collar, as 
illustrated in Diagram G. 

Make a circle as indicated by line i — -3; make a 
larger circle as per line 2 — 4. 

I to 3 is y's of smaller circle; shape from 3 to 2 as 
shown in diagram. Inside edge i, 3, 4, is sewed on to 
the neck, or to band. Diagram F. 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



>o5 



PLATE 55. 




V U 



io6 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES 56 AND 57. 



HOW TO MAKE THE CANVAS. 



The broken lines represent the actual patterns of the 
bas<iue, and the shaded portion the canvas, which in 
this illustration conies through the whole front of the 
jacket. Now as it is found in practice that all fore- 
parts will get long at points A and B, I split the regular 
pattern from top of darts, i and 2, up to points A and 
15, and insert about half an inch at i and 2 as per black 
portion running up to nothing at A and B. This will 
swing the canvas out at the waist line as from 6 to 7 
and 8 to 9. In order to secure an even round for the 
bust and make the canvas hollow in the side I cut 
tliree darts in the canvas instead of two in the goods. I 
then shrink in the goods in the side of the waist and at 
points A and B, so as to make it conform to the canvas 
bust which will hold it in shape if worked up properly; 
extra care should be taken in preparing the canvas, for 
on that depends the whole shape of the garment; make 
an e.xtra large bust and allow extra goods in front at 
point A. Having prepared or rather cut out the can- 
vas in proper shape, the next thing is to take a good 
stiff piece of haircloth and cut it out as per illustration 
on Diagram B. 

A in the middle of bust represents the small piece 
of haircloth which is cut lengthwise and V's are cut 
out as at points i, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Next take a piece of 
haircloth and cut the larger crosswise, take out V's as 
represented by points 6, 7, <S, 9 and 10. This piece of 
haircloth usually extends as low as per broken line 11, 
12, 13 and C. This largely depends on whether our 



client's bust is high or low, and in order to properly 
locate it I use a measure from center of back to largest 
part of bust. If the shoulder needs haircloth the piece 
cut crosswise may extend up as per illustration D. 
Having cut the canvas and haircloths we proceed to 
make the canvas bust, sew up the darts on canvas by 
the machine, open the seams and press canvas into 
shape over a round press block, used especially for 
that purpose, then take canvas in hand, seams up, and 
fasten haircloth (small piece cut lengthwise) in the 
middle to canvas as at point A. In illustration it ap- 
pears that the V's are cut out, but in practice I only 
split the haircloth at these points and let the edges 
overlap enough to make the haircloth conform to the 
shape of the canvas. Having fastened the small piece 
of haircloth to the canvas I place the large piece of 
haircloth on top and fasten it, then overlap the edges 
of the V's, and fasten them together. The V's in the 
two pieces of haircloth must be cut so that they do not 
come one on top of the other, but alternately as per 
illustration. Next to the haircloth lay a piece of soft 
silesia and jiad the breast solid, let the silesia just cover 
the edges of the haircloth; press the canvas after it is 
padded and baste the fronts to the backpart, seams to 
be to the outside in the sides and shoulders, then lit 
the canvas jacket, and fit the goods to the canvas. 
The canvas side of the bust should be against the goods 
and the haircloth side to the lining. 

This is the only way to correctly make a ladies' 
close-fitting waist or basque. 



NKW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



107 



PLATE 57. 



PLATE 56. 





io8 



NEW SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



GENERAL INFORMATION. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. 

To insure a perfect fitting garment for all shapes 
and forms it is necessary to take particular pains when 
taking the measure. It matters not whether these 
measures be what is termed the short actual measures 
or the long shoulder measures, either can be applied 
on this system. Before taking the measure it is well to 
remove all bows and other trimmings that may be on 
our client's dress bodice at neck and waist, for it is 
impossible to get a correct measure with these obstruc- 
tions in our way; it takes but a few minutes to sew 
them on. 

Place a square under the arm and make a mark with 
chalk at bottom of scye in front and back of arm, then 
make a mark in center of back opposite mark made 
near arm; then proceed to measure. Place measure at 
top of back at neck (socket bone) and measure to front 
of arm to chalk mark; this measure is called strap. 
Then continue the measure under the arm and up to 
top of neck; this measure is the upper shoulder. Then 
place the end of tape in the center of back, between 
and opposite the arm or on an average of 4^^ inches 
down from the top of neck; let tape lay over top of 
shoulder untler the arm and up to starting point; this is 
the lower shoulder measure. Then take measure from 
top of neck at back to front of neck; then continue 
down to lower part of bust for top of dart, then down 
to full length of waist in front. Ne.xt measure side 
length from under part of arm to top of hip; then 
length of back from top of neck to waist, and full 
length of garment desired. Place square under arm 
and measure down to elbow and to hand for length of 
sleeve. Next measure around arm at shoulder for scye, 
then width at elbow and hand. The breast measure is 
taken moderately close above the bust; then lower tape 
in front, letting it remain in regular position in back, 
and measure easy over the largest part of bust. The 
waist measure is taken snug over the band of the skirt; 
for a longer garment it is necessary to take the hip 
measure. 

FOR SKIRTS. 

Measure the front, side and back length, waist and 
hip. Also, make a note of what size around the bottom. 



FOR liREECHES. 

Measure from waist to knee and to ankle for length. 
The rise may be taken from waist to seat of the chair, 
lady being in a sitting position. 

THE SHORT MEASURES. 

If the short instead of the shouhler measures are 
wanted, take the regular strap from bottom of scye in 
front of arm up to neck at back, then hold tape in 
front of arm and measure over shoulder to mark in 
center of back opposite bottom of scye; this measure is 
called first over shoulder. Then measure from front 
of scye over shoulder to bottom of scye close up to 
arm in back; this measure is called second over 
shoulder, or closing measure. Then take depth of 
scye from top of neck to point marked in center of 
back on a level or horizontal line with bottom of arm 
scye; this measure is called the depth of scye. 

These are the regular measures used. The cutter 
may take any other measure that he can apply in prac- 
tice. 

CUTTING THE CLOTH. 

All patterns according to this method of drafting 
are without seams, and 1 hold that this is the only cor- 
rect way of drafting the various styles of ladies' gar- 
ments, for, unlike the gentlemen's garments, they vary 
a great deal in the amount or number of seams, for we 
have basques and waists with one, two and three side 
bodies, also one to two darts; sleeves with one or two 
seams; skirts with from three to eleven gores; so the 
easiest as well as the most correct method is to cut 
ladies' garments without seams and add seams and out- 
lets when cutting the cloth. 

In laying the pattern on the goods the forepart 
should lay so that the front seam of the first dart will 
run with the thread or lengthwise with the material, the 
back seam of first dart will then be on the bias; and the 
front seam of second dart on the length of goods and 
the back seam of second dart will be on the bias. The 
center seam of the back should lay with edge of goods 
at top and in from the edge at waist about two inches. 
Lay the side body so that it matches the back, and 
under armpiece to match the side body. 



NEW SUl'ERI.ATIVl': SYSTEM OF CUTTINC, LADIES' GARMENTS. 109 



The center of sleeve should run lengthwise. The lining are sewed uj) separate and ])ut together the same 

front of skirt is usually cut on the io\d and all bias as in gentlemen's garments. 

edges of the gores go to the back and the straight It is well to have a little extra size across the chest, 

edges to the front unless there be an extra back gore, A little too large over the bust is far better than snug, 

when the bias edges of the back gores meet the bias and unless the lady has a large bust, it will he well to 

edges of the side gores. allow a little extra size over the bust and fill it u]) with 

stiffening and wadding. 

MAKING TO IRV ON. , • i , i i i , ■ , • i • i /- 1 

Large sized sleeves should be interlinca with fibre 

In silk waist, or when other thin material is used chamois or scrim; also the skirt should be interlined 

for the waist, the lining is cut and fitted, then the lining with same material. 

is placed on a form or dummy and the outside goods is /\ strip of French canvas, cut on the bias, 8 to 10 

fitted to the lining. In cloth or woolen goods it is best inches wide, should be put in the bottom of the skirt, 

to cut the cloth for the try on. In basting up the waist The bottom of skirt is finished with a corduroy or vel- 

for try-on the back, side-body and underarm pieces vet binding. 

should be sewed together, as it is found that the basting The dress reform skirt should reach 2 to j; inches 

will not hold the waist together close enough; if basted, above the natural waist and button onto a waist, so (hat 

it must be done very carefully or the seams will pull the skirt will hang on the shoulders instead of the hips. 

apart. The side seams, also the darts, should be basted On the tailor-made gown, suit or wrap there should be 

with the seams to the outside and the darts should not no braiding or trimming of any kind, for in order to 

be cut out until after the garment is tried on. The give it the strictly tailor-made effect all fancy trimmings 

sleeves and collar should be basted into try-on, and in must be left off. 

delicate shades or light weight goods the skirt lining Seams and edges may be stitched or strapped, and 
may be cut out and fitted and the outside goods cut all ornamentations must be strictly tailor-made. A 
from the lining. In silk and other light weight ma- great number of first class tailors will insist on the left 
terials the goods and linings are basted together and forepart overlapping the right forepart in front, the 
sewed together in the seams; the seams are pressed backtack being laid to the right the same as on a gen- 
open and bound. In woolen goods, the goods and tieman's coat. 



^ ^ e^ e^ 



THE SUPERLATIVE 
WORKS ON CUniNG 



IJV 



CHAS. J. STONE 

"A heart to conct'iTe, a head to contrive, and a hand to execute." 

The art of cutting is too highly developed, it is too intricate, demands too exact a knowledge 
of the cutter to be mastered without deep study and long practice. In fact, a library has be- 
come indispensable to the modern cutter ; no matter how experienced a cutter may be, no 
matter how si<illful or how learned in his art, he may attain a deeper knowledge and wider 
comprehension of cutting by the proper study of the best books. 

This is a want supplied by The Superlative Works on Cutting as by none others. The 
reason for this is that their author brings to his work a natural genius supplemented by long 
and varied experience, indefatigable study and thorough investigation. The fact that cutters 
realize the truth of this matter is attested by the large and constantly increasing sales of Mr. 
Stone's works. The complete list consists of : 

Stone's New Superlative Coat and Vest System $10.00 

Stone's New Short Measure Coat and Vest System 10.00 

Stone's Superlative System of Cutting Ladies* Garments.. 10.00 

Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System 5.00 

Stone's New Superlative Trousers System, 7-00 

Stone's Superlative Trousers System 5.00 

Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer System 3.00 

Stone's Superlative Corset Grades, 14 sizes 3.00 

SPECIAL OFFER.— We will sell any two of our $10.00 works for $15.00 ; or the New Su- 
perlative or New Short Measure System, together with our New Superlative Trousers 
System for $15.00. 

Any of these works will be sent prepaid by return mail on receipt of price. No book will 
be sent C. O. D.n Send P. O. or Express Money Order or Chicago Exchange. 

Address 

CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

1 94 and 1 96 La Salle Street CHICAGO^ ILL. 

Phone Main 163 




the: chas. j. stone qq. ""^^'^'^"^"""' 
cutting school 

194-196 Lti S£ille St., CHICAGO 
THRMS KOR INSTRUCTION 

TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE 

For a complete course of Instruction (to Practical T:uIors) in Oentlim<T\'s Giirmenl Cutting (time unlimited) $100 00 

Coat 8} stem, a'one 50 00 

Vest System, alone 25 00 

Trouser System, alone 25 00 

Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters 5U 00 

Grading 50 00 

Boys and Children 100 00 

Shirts 15 00 

Drawers 15 00 

LADIES' CUTTING 

For complete course of Ladies' Garments $100 00 

Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over GarmenVs 50 00 

Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts. 25 00 

PRACTICAL CUTTERS 

Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers $ 50 00 

Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone 30 00 

" " TrouS"r System, alone 15 00 

" " Vest System, alone 15 00 

" " Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters 35 00 

PRACTICAL CUTTERS 

For special &nd private instruction in measurins, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading, 

Cutting by Bloc'< Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day <5 00 to S25 00 



^iV'Thls is a Special Feature. 



Address, CHA5. J. 5T0NE, Priuate Office, 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, CHIC.AQO, ILL. 



Stone's Reliable Block Patterns 

These Patterns are strictly up-to-date in style and outline. Ttiey are tested Patterns whicti we tiave been using 
for years, and wtiich are used by ttie best Tailors all over the Country. 



PATTERNS FOR MEN'S GARMENTS. 



S. B. Frock Coat, any size, each, 

S. B. Sack Coat, any size, each, . 

D. B. Sack Coat, any size, each, 

D. B. Frock Coat, any size, each. 

Dress Coats, any size, each, . 

S B; Over Coat, any size, each. . 

D B Over Coat, any size, each, 

Raglan Over Coat, any size, each, 

Inverness Over Coat, any size, each. . 

Paletots and Paddocks, any size, eacij, . 

S. B. Vests, any size, each, 

Dress Vest, any size, each, 

1) B. Vest, any size, each, 

Trousers, any size, each, 

Riding Breeches, 

Riding Leggins, .... 

Bicycle Pants, Plain. . 

Bicycle Pants, v\ith Cutis, 

Cutters' Combination Set of Patterns, Compiclc Outfit for i40.00. P''ices of Patterns for Boys and Children 

Furnished on Application. 

For Special Patterns the following measures are necessary for men's garments: 

The breast measure for Overcoats, which should be given as taken over the vest, and unless it is especially 
stated that it is taken over the coat, it will be so used. 

The measures necessary for all undercoats to order are: Length of coat, length of sleeve, breast, waist, 
hip and seat measures (the hip measure to be taken around the form where the waist seam is located). This 
measure is of vast importance for all skirt coats. Give height of customer and description, concise as possible, 
of his figure. 

For Vest and Trousers the usual measures. 



Si 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 '0 43. 




00 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 '0 43, 




.00 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 '0 43. ■ 




•25 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 




•25 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 '0 43, . 




5° 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 <o 43. 




•5° 


Full Set. 


n 


Sizes 


34 '043. • 


2 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43. 


2 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 


2 


00 


Full Set. 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43. 




• 75 


Full Set. 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, . 


I 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 


I 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


341043. • 




75 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


30 to 42, Waist, 


I 


25 


Clerical C 


oats, each, . 




75 


Knight Ten- 


plar Coats, each, 




75 


Hoods, each, . 


. 


I 


oo 


Capes, each 


, 





810.00 
10.00 
10.00 

12.00 
12. CO 
13.00 
13. CO 
16. to 
16. CO 
16.00 
7. CO 

8.00 
8.00 

9. oil 

1.25 

1 .25 

.50 

1.01 



PATTERNS FOR LADIES' GARMENTS. 







SIZH 


F..ACH 


1 ULl. SF.T 




S1ZR 


EACH 


Fl'LI. SET 


Basque, 


Bust 


28-40 


$1 .00 


Sio.oo 


Divided Riding Skirt, . 


. Waist, 20-32 


$1.50 


810.00 


Jackets, any style. 




28-40 


I .00 


10.00 


Bicycle Skirts. 


20-32 


• 75 


7.50 


D. B. Reefer, 




28-40 


1 .00 


10.00 


Riding Breeches, 


20-32 


• 75 


7.50 


Cutaway Coats, 




28-40 


1 .00 


10.00 


Leggins, . 




• 25 


2.50 


D. B. Frock. 


. 


28-40 


1.25 


12.00 


Caps, . 


• ' '■'-7 


■ 50 


3.00 


D. B. Ulster. 




28-40 


1.25 


12.00 


Golf Capes, 


. Bust, 28-40 


.75 


7.50 


Bicycle Coats , 




28 40 


1 .00 


10.00 


Double Capes, 


" 28-40 


1. 00 


10. CO 


D. B. Vest. 


. 


2S-4O 


.50 


5 .00 


Three-Decker Capes, . 


" 28-40 


1. 00 


10.00 


Costume Skirt. 


. Waist, 


20-32 


• 75 


7.50 


Single Sleeves. 


2S-40 


.50 


5. CO 


Riding Skirt, 


" 


20-32 


1.50 


10.00 











All these Patterns Cut to Order, Single or in Sets, at Regular Prices. • 

Measures necessary for ladies' garments: 

Length of waist and full length of garment; the underarm length from armscye to small of waist; the front 
length from center of back at neck to largest part of bust and down to waist in front. Length of sleeve should 
be taken with a square under the arm to wrist. Take the size of sleeve at elbow and at hand^ Take bust meas- 
ure easy and waist snug, and hip easy. If the garment is to button up to the neck, the size of neck must be 
given. For skirts, take front, side and back lengths and waist, also hip measure^ In ordering skirt patterns, 
state what width goods is to be used, as the gores must be cut accordingly. 

All orders for Patterns must be accompanied by cash remittance of at least 50% of the amount ordered 
to receive attention. All orders executed promptly. Address 

The Chas. J. Stone Co.^ 

1 94. 1 96 La Salle St., Chicago. 
Phone Main 163 



Tailors' Squares a^' Measures 

We carry a Complete Line of Squares, Measures, Etc , the Best in the Market, and sell them 

at most reasonable rates. 



PATENT FOLDING SQUARE 

(The Illustration shows the Square Open and Closed.) 




'■ "! ■ " ■;: 

lj8 






SQUARES 

Boxwood, 16x24, 
14x24, 
" 12x24, . 

Maplewood, 14x24, 

" 12x24, • 

Patent Folding, Boxwood, 
Stone's Measuring Squares, brass attachment, 
Boxwood, 6x10 (folding), 
Maplewood, 6x10 (not folding). 
Sliding Arm (Glencross), 
Trousers, .... 



Si 


75 


I 


50 


I 


25 


I 


10 


I 


00 


2 


75 


2 


50 


1 


50 




75 


1 


75 



80 



STICKS, ETC. 

5-4 Sticks, beveletl and jointed, 

5-4 Sticks, beveled edge. 

Yard Sticks, beveled edge, 

" " straigiit edge (thin cap), 
" " " " (thick cap), 

24inch Sticks, " " (bench rule), 

Curved Sticks, 

Tape Measures, finest cjuality, each, 
" " good " " 

Patent Crotch Measures, 

Centimeter Measures, 



Si 50 
70 
-15 
30 
25 
25 
35 
20 

15 



(Add 25 Cents on all Squares and Sticks for Packing and Shipping.) 

In ordering Squares, be sure to state whether )ou want the division of ^rds or 4ths on 
the long arm. Send in your orders witli the money, and any article ordered will be sent by 
return express. No goods sent C. O. 1). unless one-halt of the ]jrice accompanies the order. 

To insure safe delivery of remittance send Post Oilice, Money or E.vprcss Ord(;r. 

Address all orders to 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. 

194-196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO 



Cutters' andTailors' Shears 

We sell the well known Heinisch Shears, Trimmers, Etc , at reasonable prices. None better 

can be obtained, the best cannot be bought cheaper. 




HEINISCH'S CELEBRATED SHEARS 



3 Full length, 
31^ Full length, 

4 Full length, 
4]/^ Full length, 
6 Full length, 

Full length. 
Full length, 
Full length. 
Full length. 



7 
S 

9 

10 



I2 3.i 

14 

MJ4^ 



inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches. 



apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 



handles, $3 25 
handles, 3 50 
handles, 4 25 
handles, 4 50 
handles, 6 50 
handles, 7 50 
handles, 8 25 
handles, 9 00 
handles, 10 00 




HEINISCH'S TAILORS' POINTS 



Nickel-plated Shears, extra, . $2 00 

Left-handed Shears, extra, $1 00 to 2 00 

Nickel-plated Trimmers, extra, . i 50 

Left-handed Trimmers, extra, . 50 



Full length, 5 inches, japanned handles, 
Full length, 5}^ inches, japanned handles. 
Full length, 6 inches, japanned handles, 




HEINISCH'S BENT TRIMIVIERS 



Full length. 
Full length, 
Full length, 
?"ull length, 
Full length, 
Full length, 10 
Full length, 11 
Full length, 12 
Full length, 13 



7 

TA 

8 

&'A 
9 



inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches, 
inches. 



apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 
apanned 



handles, 
handles, 
handles, 
handles, 
handles, 
handles, 
handles, 
handles, 
handles, 



$0 60 

6S 

70 

So 

90 

I 10 

I 25 
I 5° 
I 75 




BAUER'S 

^'° '° PATENT REVOLVING BUTTONHOLE CUTTER 



CUTS ANY SIZE BUrrONHOLE 



60 Price, per pair, net, 



Si 75 



All orders will be promptly attended to. To insure safe delivery, send P. O. , Money or 
Express Order. Address, 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. 

194=196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO 





THE NEW CENTURY TRACING WHEEL. ^- 



(PA TKN I Al'l'l.lKI) rOR. ) 



The accompanying cut will give an idea of cur new 
century tracing wheel. The practical as well as the 
novel features of this tracer are that the tracing wheel 
is set on an axle which slides in a C shaped slot with a 
safety catch at each end, so that the wheel when not in 
use will by the touch of your finger slide inside of the 
case and is held securely in that position until — presto, 
as by magic the wheel has appeared and willi its sharp 
teeth is ready to make an imprint on paper or cloth. 

The tracer is exact size of accompanying cut, and 
fifty cents will make you the happy possessor of one of 
these new century disappearing vest pocket tracers. 




ON THE 5QJ/\RE 

AS A RULL 
WE DO OJR OWN BLOyf INO 



STONE'S RELIABLE 
BLOCK PATTERNS, 



^tone's Superlative System of putting 



and our practical method of insiructing 
students attending our Culling School. 



:Ar-Ji^cD~r I3i 



iLJRI^" A^^^E: ED 




IhTSm .AT TliE P®ST-OfPI(CE AT CKCCAGO A§ SEODMS CLASS MAUTlEl 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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